Gully Wall

Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©


The Rocky Gully separates the downstream end of the main Power Wall from the Warrior Wall. At this gully, the Power Wall makes a distinct turn away from the river and then forms the right hand side of the gully. On the Gully Wall, nearest to the river, 'Rattlesnake Shake' is about 25 m high. The Gully Wall diminishes in height with distance from the river until, at 'One', it is barely 5 m high. After this, it peters out altogether.

The Gully Wall is reached by scrambling up to the Access Ledge and then walking downstream along this ledge, across the base of the Power Wall until you reach the Rocky Gully separating the Power and Warrior Walls. Scramble up the gully and the Gully Wall will be on your right.

After topping out on this wall it is quick and easy to walk back (to the left) along the jeep track at the top of the crag. When the crag peters out, leave the track and walk back along the base of the wall.

Shady trees form a park-like area along the base of the Gully Wall. This is an ideal place to get out of the sun on a hot day. The climbs are listed from right to left.


1. Rattlesnake Shake (15) ***

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Mark Robertson (27 April 1997)

Just below the top of the Rock Gully between the Power and Warrior Walls are some large, black blocks / slabs. Climb easily up the blocks to a rock ledge. From the back of the ledge, climb straight up the deep recess / chimney until it is blocked by an overhang. Step right onto a small ledge and climb a short face to a small ledge. Either continue straight up the face above to the top. Alternatively step left, back over the top of the chimney, and continue up the open book to the top. This is a popular and well protected route.

2. Tokoloshe (13) [9B;C] ***

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (30 June 2007)

Start down the slope about 10 m to the right of 'Mamba'.  Climb the short fist jam crack to a large ledge.  Climb the large pyramid-like block either going straight up or by using the highly polished right-hand edge. Continue straight up the face above to the chains.  Some interesting climbing at the grade.


3. Hmmm (14) ***

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (25 September 2000)

Start at the deep, off-width recess / crack 2 m to the right of the small slab where 'Right Fork', 'Left Fork' and 'Mamba' have their communal starting point. Climb the crack to reach the top of the large pyramid-like block that forms the right hand side of the crack. Step up onto the face above and climb diagonally right to a position just left of, and above a small fig tree, then climb straight up the easy face to the top. Variation: Start at 'Rattlesnake Shake' and climb the wide crack in the corner on the left to reach a large ledge. Climb the crack between the large pyramid-like block and the face. From the top of the block, continue up the face as described above. Either of these starts requires a few very large cams or hexes. Protection higher up on the face is good.


4. Right Fork (10) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (31 August 1997)

At the top of the Rocky Gully between Power and Warrior walls there is a large, broken, right-facing recess / corner that runs the full height of the crag. Half way up the crag, the line splits around a small buttress or huge block that fills the top half of the recess. Start up a small slab located just to the left of the base of the recess. From the slab, move up to the right to gain the recess. Continue up the recess, keeping to the right at the fork.


5. Left Fork (11) ***

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (31 August 1997)

Start as for 'Right Fork'. Climb the recess but keep left at the fork. Pull easily through the small overhang in the corner and continue easily up to the top. Variation: After the small overhang, climbing up the small face on the right gives good but sparsely protected climbing.


6. Mamba (13) [C]****

Opening party: Gavin Peckham; Kevin Scott; Rodney Owen. (26 April 1997)

Just left of the forked recess is an obvious, left tending line. Start by climbing up onto the small slab as for 'Left Fork' and 'Right Fork', but then step up and left (crux) to gain the start of the obvious left-tending line. Climb this on big jugs, exiting left at each of the two small roofs. Finish straight up on thin holds. This is a popular and well protected route. Variation: Exit to the right at the second small roof.


7. Baby Boomers (18) [5B;C] ***

Opening party: Mark Misselhorn and Ashleigh McKenzie (30 July 2005)

Take off just to the left of 'Mamba'. Climb up through an overlap to gain the short compact headwall (crux) and then finish as for 'Venom'.  Avoid whimping off left onto 'Venom' or right onto 'Mamba' lower down!


8. Venom (16) [C] ****

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Jonathon Wigley (27 April 1997)

Start 4 m left of 'Mamba' i.e. about 2 m right of the fig tree at the start of 'Cobra'. Climb straight up to a projecting, black 'fist' of rock and then continue straight up to the top. Do not whimp off left onto 'Cobra' at the bottom, or right onto 'Mamba' at the top. Good climbing - fairly sustained, but well protected.


9. Cobra (17) ***

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Rodney Owen (27 April 1997)

Start 2 m left of 'Venom' between the forked stem of a fig tree. Using the fork of the tree to get started, climb straight up, passing just to the right of a large semi-detached block. Warning: This large block looks like a death-trap but has resisted our efforts to topple it - belayer beware - just in case ! From the block move up diagonally right then finish straight up? Gear is sparse low down but improves higher up.


10. Viper (20) **

Opening party: Kyle O'Donoghue and Kevin Scott (27 April 1997)

Start up a shallow right tending recess 4 m left of 'Cobra'. Pull up on the obvious blocks to a small roof. Traverse about 2 m left then finish straight up.


11. Boomslang (18 / 16) ***

Opening party: Ross O'Donoghue and Kyle O'Donoghue (27 April 1997)

Start 4 m left of 'Viper' and climb the obvious crack line just to the right of a fig tree which is growing out of the rock about halfway up the face. Tend slightly left towards the top. The grade is reduced to about 16 if you use the tree at any stage - sustained - most people just about camp on the tree !

 

Note: To the left of 'Boomslang' there are about ten, short somewhat arbitrary lines that were originally climbed by Gavin Peckham in July 1997. Some of the lines tend to collect dead leaves and grass but are easily cleaned. Several of these short lines are ideal for beginners, especially if they are terrified of heights or exposure.

 

12. Eight (11) [4B;C] ** (Retro-bolted)

Start at the base of a deep, blocky recess about 8 m to the left of 'Boomslang'. Climb the obvious line diagonally up to the right.


13. Adder (10) [C] **

Start as for 'Eight' but climb straight up the large, blocky recess. There is a suspect looking block / flake on the way up. It has defied our best efforts to dislodge it and seems quite secure. Well protected.


14. Flaky (12) [2B;C] ** (Retro-bolted)

Start about 5 m to the left of 'Adder' and climb the blocky line on the arête between a small orange face on the left and a large recess on the right.


15. Five (18) [3B;C] ** (Retro-bolted)

Start about 3 m to the left of 'Flaky' near the left-hand side of the small, orange wall. Use tiny, spaced holds to climb strenuously up to jugs halfway up the short wall and then continue more easily to the top.


16. Four and a Half (08) [C] *

Climb the very easy recess between Four and Five.  Exit just to the right of the tree at the top.  Usually needs cleaning. Shares chains with 'Five'.


17. Four (12) [3B;C] ** (Retro-bolted)

Climb the short wall about half way between 'Five' and 'Sidewinder' - i.e. about 3 m from either.


18. Sidewinder (11) [3B;C] **

Start under a small roof about 3 m to the left of 'Four'. Climb diagonally right to the top.


19. Scale (14) [C] **

Start as for 'Sidewinder', directly under a crack through the small roof. Pull through the roof and then on to the top. Good gear under the roof - about five moves in total!


20. One and a Half (12) [3B; C] ** (Retro-bolted)

Start about 1 m to the left of 'Scale' and 1 m to the right of 'One'. Climb straight up the very short wall. Shares the third bolt and chains with the next route.


21. One (10) [3B; C]** (Retro-bolted)

Start about 1 m to the left of 'One and a Half' and climb straight up the very short wall to the chains.

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