Bushy Buttress

Copyright: MCSA-KZN 2007 ©


Bushy Buttress : Route Descriptions



The Bushy Buttress is located upstream of the Power Wall and is separated from it by the Bushy Gully. The Bushy Buttress consists of two distinct tiers. The upper tier may be seen sticking up against the sky-line from most vantage points, but the lower tier is concealed amongst the bushes and trees. This area is very shady and has several very short, easy routes. These general features are shown in the adjacent photo. Unfortunately most (but not all) of the routes have little protection and must either be soloed or top-roped. The rock on the upper tier is typical White Umfolozi rock, but that on the lower tier is strangely weathered. It has shallow pockets with good edges and is very coarse grained with excellent friction - quite the opposite of the rock on the Lower Warrior Wall. To reach the Bushy Buttress follow the path up from the river to the Access Ledge on the Power Wall. Walk to the right along the Access Ledge to the Bushy Gully and then carry on straight across the Bushy Gully to reach the lower tier. Routes on the lower tier top out on a wide ledge at the base of the upper tier which may be reach directly by walking up the Bushy Gully for a short distance (about 20 m) before moving out the gully to the right. The climbs are listed in an upstream sequence from left to right.


UPPER TIER


1. Groovy Grunt (18) ***

Opening party: Jonathon Wigley and Gavin Peckham (17 May 2003)

Start at the arête where the Upper Tier of the Bushy Buttress swings sharply away from the river to form a short wall on one side of the Bushy Gully. Climb the recess just to the right of the arête to reach a large ledge. Step over blocks to the right and then climb the prominent crack up past a 'Thank God' fig tree to the top. Protected by a few small wires in the lower recess and by big cams and the tree in the upper crack line.

2. Gauteng-a-leng (10) **

Opening party: Greg and Cheryl Devine and Dave Taylor (25 September 2004)

Start about 2 m to the left of 'Sexy Sardine'. Climb a blocky corner past a fig tree root. Get onto the headwall and climb up into the corner, exiting left.


3. The Sexy Sardine (15) ***

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Jonathon Wigley (17 May 2003)

Start 6 m to the right of 'Groovy Grunt'. Climb the short but good crack to a large ledge - avoiding the temptation to use the small tree for assistance! Climb the large, left-facing corner and interesting crack at the back of the ledge. Well protected.


4. Winding Down (12) **

Opening party: Richard Knott (25 October 1997)

Climb the first 4 m of 'Going Home' then step left onto a ledge. Climb a series of corners to finish 2 m left of 'Going Home'. Very vegetated.


5. Going Home (14) ***

Opening party: Richard Knott (25 October 1997)

Start at the base of an open book about 5 m to the right of 'Sexy Sardine'.   Climb the open book up to a ledge covered with dassie droppings.  Continue up the excellent crack (with an interesting crux move) that splits the buttress from bottom to top.


The following routes are located about 100 m to the right of the previous routes.  You can reach them by walking along the ledge between the Upper and Lower Tiers, past the small free-standing pillar(*) on the corner and then around onto the side overlooking the hut. However, it is probably easier to approach them by taking the path from the new hut up to the Lower Tier.  When you reach the Lower Tier, turn to the right and walk along the base of the crag past a couple of cairns to reach a cairn at the base of a short rock band. Scramble up this to reach the Upper Tier at 'Arb'.  Most of the following routes are  marked by small white arrows and are listed from left to right.  (*)This has been climbed by Derek Marshall but might fall over if you breathe on it too heavily!

 

6. Jigsaw (09) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Ashleigh McKenzie   (03 September 2005)

About 100 m to the right of  'Going Home' there is a pale orange face that leans back at a friendly angle with several cracks.  Climb the main crack line that splits the face from top to bottom.


7. Arb (08) *

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (03 September 2005)

Start about 5 m to the right of the previous route.  Climb the short, narrow, grey face to the right of a small tree to reach a ledge.  Move left and climb to the top passing to the left of the next tree.


8. Rab (08) *

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (24 September 2005)

Start about 5 m to the right of the previous route.  Start in the recess behind the straggly Plumbago  Climb straight up the blocky recess to the top.  The top part of this route coincides with the next route. plants.


9. Bra (10) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Ashleigh McKenzie   (03 September 2005)

Start about 3 m to the right of the previous route - on the right-hand side of the small arête.  Climb the short crack and then follow the easiest line to the top.


10. Grunt (18) **

"Opening party": Ashleigh McKenzie and Gavin Peckham  (03 September 2005) (Top-roped only.)

About 15 m to the right of 'Bra' there is a short, steep, orange face split by two cracks with a small roof between them.  Climb up using both cracks, but exiting via the one on the left.


11, 12, 13. Three Little Pigs (9, 10, 9) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (24 September 2005)

About 5 m to the right of 'Grunt' there is a small buttress of grey rock that is split by three neat cracks about 1 m apart from each other.  Climb these crack lines.


14. KYAG (14) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (24 September 2005)

Immediately to the right of the previous routes there is a very obvious, short, smooth-sided, orange corner.  When upward progress ceases, dyno for the good edge on the top of the right-hand face.  Zero gear - not recommended unless you are on top-rope because if you miss the dyno you can KYAG!


LOWER TIER


The lower tier is shady and has plenty of very short and very easy routes.   Many of these have little protection and must either be soloed or top-roped.  Unlike typical Umfolozi rock, the rock on the lower tier is very soft and is strangely weathered.  It is very coarse grained and provides excellent friction not unlike the famous Peak Gritstone. The first eight of the following 'routes' are named after Snow White and her Seven Dwarfs because they are so short and easy !!!   Copyright: MCSA-KZN 2007 © Unless otherwise stated, all the routes on the Lower Tier were first climbed by Gavin Peckham on 11 and 12 October 2002.  Some of the better lines have now been retro-bolted.

1. Snow White (14) [4B;C] *** (Retro-bolted)

Walk in along the lower tier for about 20 m from the bottom of the Bushy Gully until you reach a relatively pronounced arête that runs up for about 10 m to a large fig tree at the top.  The route takes the face to the left of the arête.  Start directly below a clump of plants growing out of the face near the top of the crag.  Climb up towards the plants then take a big step left and continue straight up to the top.  Do not pull outwards on the two small chicken heads - they will only take a downward pull.  Using the blocks at the base of the face makes the take-off much easier! 


2. Oink (15) [3B;C] ***

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (30 April 2006)

Climb the line just on the left of the Snow White arête.


2. Happy (13) *** [4B;C] (Retro-bolted)

Start on the right-hand edge of the 'Snow White' arête and then climb the neat arête to the top.


3. Dopey (10)

About 2 m to the right of the 'Snow White' arête there is another very short arête. Start just to the right of the arête and climb it to the top - after the take-off moves, this is a total non-event.


4. Grumpy (08) *

About 3 m to the right of the 'Dopey' arête there is a short open-book. Climb up the centre of the very short, pock-marked face on the left of the open book.


5. Sleepy (09) *

Climb up the centre of the very short face on the right of the open book.


6. Doc (09) *

About 4 m to the right of the 'Sleepy' open book is another small open book with a wide crack up the back. Stem up this very short open-book and exit to the left.


7. Sneezy (09) *

About 4 m to the right of the 'Doc' open book there are three small adjacent arêtes. The middle arête is undercut and 'hanging'. This line takes the broken arête on the left of the central, undercut arête.


8. Bashful (09) *

This line takes the arête on the right of the undercut arête. Start up steps to reach the arête which is followed to the top.


9. Ant Line (11) **

About 30 m upstream of the Bushy Gully, the lower tier of Bushy Buttress turns a corner and runs away at right-angles to the river. This route climbs the arête on the corner. Climb up ledges to reach the short arête which is climbed to the top.


10. Bee in the Bonnet (15) ***

Opening party: Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts (25 September 2004)

Start about 5 m to the right of the 'Ant Line' arête and about 2 m to the left of a wide crack / chimney . Climb the face past some white bird sh*t to an undercut crack near the top of the recess. Continue up the crack passing just left of a large fig tree and then continue up the open book to the top.


11. Pedling Our Wares (13) ***

Opening party: Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts (25 September 2004)

Start on a face about 5 m to the right of 'Bee in the Bonnet'.  Climb up the face to an overlap below a bulging block. Move up immediately right of the overlap until it is possible to move left onto the top of the block and then further left to a ledge at the base of an openbook recess which is followed to the top.


12. Encouraging Debait (sic) (15) ***

Opening party: Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts (25 September 2004)

Start about 1 m to the right of 'Pedling Our Wares'.  Climb directly up a finger crack, over a bulging block and into the bottom of a bushy recess.  Climb the clean face on the left of the recess.


13. The Marshall Approach (18) ***

Opening party: Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts (25 September 2004)

Start about 1 m to the right of 'Encouraging Debait'.  Climb up to the slightly overhanging start of a neat, right-tending groove/corner.  Pull through the small overlap into the corner and climb the corner up to a large fig tree. Move leftwards onto a block and up to the top. (Comment: >From below it looks as if it would be easier to exit to the right at the tree. G.P.).


14. Bolty and Drilly Do Trad (10) **

Opening party: Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts (25 September 2004)

Start about 3 m to the right of 'The Marshall Approach'. Climb the obvious, left-tending corner to the top of a pile of blocks.  Follow the broken, right-tending crack line to the top. Beware of loose rock on the route and on the ledge above!


15. Ingram's Technique (12) ***

Opening party: Gareth Frost and Darryl Margetts (25 September 2004)

Start on the face about 1 m to the right of 'Bolty and Drilly Do Trad' and just left of a tree.  Climb a short recess capped by an overhanging block.  Move out right to reach the start of an excellent, left-tending dihedral that goes to the top. Beware of loose rock on the route and on the ledge above!


16. Solitaire (12) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (31 August 2005)

A prominent prow juts out about 5 m to the right of 'Ingram's Technique'.  Just to the right of the prow there is a crack line with a tree growing horizontally out of the adjacent face, about 3 m up. Climb the crack past the tree to reach the base of a recess which is climbed to the top. Very well protected.   Ab (or top-rope) off the chains on 'Little Honda'.


17. Little Honda (10) [4B;C] ** (Retro-bolted)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (31 August 2005)

Start about 3 m to the right of 'Solitaire' and just to the right of a vertical crack line.  Climb up passing just to the left of a large nettle tree about 3 m up.  Climb up the centre of the short grey face that leans back at an easy angle.


18. Abdominal Noman (13) [3B;C] ** (Retrobolted)

About 10 m to the right of 'Little Honda' and about 6 m to the left of the 'All Aboard' recess, there is a deep recess / corner with a large block at the base and a fig tree at the top on the left.  Start 3 m to the left of the recess.  Climb the wrinkled orange face just to the left of a crack.  Shares chains with 'Yeti'.


19. Yeti (13) [3B;C] **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (30 April 2006)

Climb the line of bolts 1 m left of 'Abdominal Noman', with which it shares chains.


20. Shoehorn (09) *

Start about 1 m to the right of 'Abdominal Noman'. Climb straight up the narrow, grey, wrinkly face immediately to the right of a deep crack line. Top out just left of the fig tree.


21. Akkedis (08) *

Climb the narrow, knobbly grey face directly below the fig tree and top out just to the right of the fig tree. This route is easy to down climb after topping out on adjacent routes.


22. Adios Amigo (14) [3B;C] ** (Retrobolted) Photo

About 5 m to the right of the previous two routes there is a large, left-sloping V-shaped recess capped by a roof with a fig tree growing on it. Climb the short orange face just to the left of the recess - thin and trickier than it looks.


23. All Aboard (09) [2B;C]** (Retrobolted) Photo

Climb the left-tending grey ramp on the left-hand side of the V-shaped recess capped by a roof with a fig tree. 

 

The path to the new hut heads diagonally left down the hill from the base of this recess.

 

24. Aardvark (08) [2B;C]** (Retrobolted) Photo

About 4 m to the right of the previous route there is a right-facing, left-tending openbook with a slightly overhanging block at the top.  The rock is wrinkled and grey on the left-hand side but orange on the right-hand side. Climb this easy corner sticking mainly to the grey face.


25. Debut (09) *

Opening party: Dalena van Jaarsveld and Gavin Peckham (01 July 2005)

Start about 5 m to the right of the 'Aardvark' open book and climb the crack at the back of the obvious recess that runs to the top of the short face.


26. Route With a View (09) *

Opening party: Dalena van Jaarsveld and Gavin Peckham (01 July 2005)

Start about 2 m to the right of the 'Debut' recess and bridge up between the face and the adjacent column of rock.   After you top out, look upstream for a superb view!

Comments