Copyright:
MCSA - KZN 2001 ©
Note:
These crags are on private property. It is essential to obtain prior
permission from the landowner before climbing. Failure to do so will result in prosecution.
There is a general consensus that many of the older routes are significantly
under-graded and under protected by current standards - especially in the
moderate grades - sandbags of note! Comments on the grades given below are
welcomed. There are a few old pegs and bolts scattered about the crag. It would
be best to check these thoroughly on top-rope before risking your life on them.
Wedged blocks are a characteristic of routes on some parts of the crag. Whilst
many of these have withstood vigorous attempts to dislodge them, it would still
be wise to treat such blocks with extreme caution.
There
are two easy scrambles at the farmhouse end of the crag. These are about 20 m
and 35 m back from the 'first' electricity pole and both angle down to the
right as you look out over the top of the crag. There is a steep scramble-down
5 m after the point where the power lines cross the crag and another at the
furthest point from the farm house. It is possible to walk fairly easily along
the base of the crag in most areas, but sometimes it is quicker abseil from one
of the trees or other convenient points.
All
the routes described below are listed from left to right starting at the
left-hand end of the crag which is nearest to the farm house. The first 11
routes are on the farmhouse side of the first electricity pole. They easily
reached by going down one of the scrambles and walking along the bottom of the
crag. These routes are all very short and generally easy. This is a good shady
area to take your grandmother climbing !
Electric Pole Area
The first 11
routes are on the farmhouse side of the first electricity pole. They easily
reached by going down one of the scrambles and walking along the bottom of the
crag. These routes are all very short and generally easy. This is a good shady
area to take your grandmother climbing !
1. Cry
Wolf (15) ** (CW)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Neil Peckham (01 September 2002)
Start
about 20 m to the left of the first easy scramble - more or less in front of
the farmhouse at a short, right-facing corner that is capped by a small roof.
Stem up the corner to the jug under the roof then step out to the right to
exit. There is no significant gear low down.
2. Baby
Face (10) * (BF)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)
Start
2 m to the left of 'Tweedle Dum' under a protruding nose of rock. Climb up 3 m
then step left onto the end of a large ledge. Climb up a few moves until it is
possible to step out to the right onto the top of the protruding nose using a
small, concealed hold around the corner to the right. Finish straight up.
3. Tweedle
Dum (09) * (TU)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)
Start
as for 'Tweedle Dee' but tend left, to reach the base of recess on the left to
the 'Tweedle Dee' arête. From the recess, step up left onto a ledge and then
exit straight up. It is harder than 9 if you start of slightly to the left of
'Tweedle Dee'.
4. Tweedle
Dee (08) * (TE)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)
Go
down the scramble is located about 35 m back towards the farmhouse from the
first electricity pole. At the bottom of the scramble, on the edge closest to
the farmhouse, there is a small, weathered stump at the base of the rock. Start
just left of the stump and climb straight up the face for about 3 m to reach a
tiny arête between two recesses. Climb straight up the arête to the top.
5. On
Root (13) [4B, C] ** (OR)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)
About
10 m to the right of 'Tweedle Dee' there is a fig tree at the top of the crag.
Start just left of a long, arm-thick root descends all the way from the tree to
the ground. Climb up and mantle onto a ledge about 3 m up, then climb straight
up the middle of the clean, gray face to the chains. Using the root prior to
the mantle makes life much easier!
6. After the Rain (10) ** (AR)
Opening party: Bruce Sobey and
Gavin Peckham (20 November 2005)
Climb the short face about 2 m
to the right of 'On Root'.
7. Fig
Jam (13) ** (FJ)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Greg Wooding (17 August 2002)
Start
5 m to the right of 'On Root', just to the right of the fig tree at the top of
the crag, but just left of a deep off-width. Climb straight up to the top.
Using the fig tree branches or the block to the right of the off-width is 'off
limits'. Well protected.
There
is an easy scramble between 'Fig Jam' and 'Pumpkin Eater'.
8. Pumpkin
Eater (14) ** (PE)
Opening
party: Greg Wooding and Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)
Start
5 m to the right of 'Fig Jam' under a small overhang 2 m up. Stem up past the
overhang and then climb straight up the orange, lichen-infested face above.
Gear is adequate but sparse.
9. Witch's
Brew (17) **** (WB)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Neil Peckham (01 September 2002)
Start
about 3 m to the right of 'Pumpkin Eater', below a large, overhanging block at
the top of the crag. Climb straight up the clean face and exit to the right of
the block using a series of lay away holds. An alternative exit to the left of
the block has not yet been attempted.
10. Have We
Sunk to This? (09) ** (HW)
Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Bruce Sobey (11 November 2005)
Start about 10 m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' and just to the left of a
tree at the bottom of the crag. Climb straight up to a ledge and then up blocks
to the top.
11. Any
Which Way (13) *** (AW)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Greg Wooding (17 August 2002)
Start
about 15 m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' at some crumpled-looking orange rock
with right-tending grooves. Climb up for about 4 m and then continue up
diagonally right, past a small tree to reach a large ledge. Walk across to the
right hand end of the ledge and then climb straight up to the top where you can
belay on one of the old metal bollards.
Projects: About 14 m to
the right of 'Any Which Way' there is a narrow, right-facing face and a deep,
right-tending corner crack. Gavin Peckham is working on the face, whilst Greg
Wooding is working on the corner crack.
Verooka Palooka Area
The
next 8 routes from 'Planet Digit' up to 'Pas de Deux' are all in the same
(Verooka Palooka) open book which is located about 20 m beyond the first electricity
pole as you walk-in to the crags. It is easiest to access these routes by
abseiling down the 'Verooka Palooka' corner.
12. Planet
Digit (22) *** (PT)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
This
route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2 m to
the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow
the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the
left.
13. Planet
Digit Direct (23) ****
Opening
party: Stephan Isebeck (1989)
Start
as for 'Planet Digit' and climb straight up the face past the bolt.
14. Moon on
Ice (23) [xB; C] **** (MI)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Start immediately to the left of
the blocks at the base of the wall. Follow the obvious break above, finishing
up the wall past the bolt.
Gerald
has recently (2007) retro-bolted this route.
15. Challenger
(22) *** (CR)
Opening
party: Ian Guest (1989)
Start
on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on
Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top
past two bolts.
16. Verooka
Palooka (14) [xB; C] ** (VP)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
This route takes the crack up the
corner of the open book. Climb easily up to an awkward exit.
Gerald has recently (2007) retro-bolted
this route.
Apparently
the chains provide an easy ab point to access the routes in this area.
17. Pig (20)
** (PG)
Opening
party: John Rolfe and Linda Waldman (1989)
Start
2 m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb straight up the face
pulling through the roofs above.
18. Slap and
Tickle (15) ** (ST)
Opening
party: Grant Cockburn and Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)
Start
4 m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb up to a small ledge
with a bush and pull through the roof above.
19. Pas de
Deux (12) ** (PX)
Opening
party: A Malherbe and Gerald Camp (1989)
From
the bottom of 'Verooka Palooka', traverse easily along the ledge on the
right-hand face. From near the end of the ledge, climb straight up the face.
20. Girlfriend
in a Coma (18) [4B; C] ** (GF)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Start at the base of the roofs just
around the corner to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Climb up to
the bulge and crank through on the left. Move up to the roof above and pull
through onto the ramp.
Gerald
has recently (2007) retro-bolted this route.
The
next 4 routes up to 'Bandaloop' are all in the same (Clockworks) open book
which is located about 40 m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka'.
21. Clockworks
(17) [5B; C] ** (CK)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
About 40 m to the right of 'Verooka
Palooka' there is another large open book with blocky chimney up the corner.
The left-hand face of this open book is a clean, orange/grey wall with a fig
tree on a ledge near the top. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 © Start near the middle of the left-hand face
by a 1 m high, semi-detached block. Climb the crack and then tend left up the
face avoiding the broken rock on the right. Exit just to the right of the tree.
Gerald
has recently (2008) retro-bolted this route.
22. Doggone
(14) ** (DG)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Miles Holman (May 1993)
Start
about 1 m to the left of 'Clockworks' and about 4 m to the right of the chimney
in the corner. Climb the obvious blocky break and then go diagonally to the
right up the good face to finish just to the right of a fig tree.
(It
seems that this route is just an easier variation of 'Clockworks'.)
23. Maniacal
Expertise (24) **** (ME)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
This
line takes the left-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Clockworks' and
'Doggone'. Start below the peg and climb straight up the face, exiting slightly
to the right.
24. Bandaloop
(20) *** (BP)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp and Dave Robertson (1989)
Start
just to the right of 'Maniacal Expertise' and climb the face past a block which
appears to be loose.
25. Was It
That Long Ago? (13) *** (WI)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp and Luke Wijnberg (22 June 2001)
Start
just around the corner to the right of 'Bandaloop'. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001
© Climb the arête on the left of the
small face. A short, steep section can be avoided by moving to the right, then
up and back left onto the arête. The protection is good.
Painted Desert Area
The
next 3 routes up to 'Post Modern' are all in the same (Big Mamma) open book.
This is located about 120 m beyond 'Verooka Palooka' and immediately to the
left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree
Amphitheatre' - see below. There is plenty of potential for new routes in the
50 odd metres between 'Was It That Long Ago?' and 'Green Streaked Nose'.
26. Green
Streaked Nose (21) *** (GS)
Opening
party: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Simon Joubert (1989)
Climb
up the centre of the face to the left of 'Big Mamma' and pull through the
middle of the roof. Finish anywhere up the face above. A great move through the
roof.
27. 15. Big
Mamma (11) ** (BM)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (07 November 1993)
Start
in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie'
and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof
at 5 m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to
the right near the top to avoid a loose block.
28. Modern
Post Fragmented Neo-Traditionalist Boulder
Problem (22) ** (BP)
Opening
party: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Simon Joubert (1989)
Start
below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this
roof below the small tree and finish up the break. (People who burden us with
route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)
The
next 6 routes up to 'Woops' are all in the same (Dixie)
open book which is located immediately to the left of the 'Titanium Beefsteaks'
face.
29. Frog
(16) ** (FG)
Opening
party: Andrew Russell-Boulton, Ron Uken and Simon Joubert (1989)
Start
under a small roof formed by a block about 3 m up and about 4 m to the left of
'Cool Jewelled Moon'. Climb left past the roof and then up the orange and black
face above.
30. .Cool Jewelled Moon (25) *** (CJ)
Opening
party: Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)
Start
at a perfect, rectangular, undercling pocket about 5 m to the left of the 'Dixie' corner. Crank up past a very old peg to a roof.
Pull through the centre of the roof and continue up the face above.
31. Dixie (13) ** (DX)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Miles Holman (May 1993)
Just
around the corner, to the left of the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' face is a large bay
/ small amphitheatre that is shaded by a large fig tree growing out from the
top of the crag. Start at the main, central corner in the 'fig tree amphitheatre'
and climb the short layback crack to the top. DANGER: During July 2007 we noticed that the bottom of this route
has collapsed but retains a 3 m column of unstable perched blocks that look extremely dangerous !
32. Mantis
Mania (20) *** (MM)
Opening
party: Grant Cockburn and Simon Joubert (1989)
Start
2 m to the left of 'Milk of Paradise'. Climb up the vague crack in the wall to
a small, stepped roof. Move right and follow the crack to the top. Gear is
tricky. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©
33. Milk of Paradise (20) *** (MP)
Opening
party: Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)
Start
in a shallow recess towards the right-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Dixie'. Climb straight up the face, pulling the small
roof encountered halfway up.
34. Woops
(13) *** (WP)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (07 November 1993)
Start
as for 'Milk of Paradise' about 10 m to the right of 'Dixie'.
Climb up the broken recess for about 4 m then traverse out to the right to
reach the arête and exit straight up.
The
next 2 routes are both on the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' face which is just to the
left of the 'Painted Desert' face and
separated from it by a short, low wall.
35. Rock
Around the Block (15) *** (RA)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (07 November 1993)
Start
on the ledge 1 m to the left of Titanium Beefsteaks'. Climb up diagonally left
for 5 m to the obvious arête. Then move up diagonally to the right for 3 m
until it is possible to exit straight up easily on good holds. The 'block' fell
off on the opening ascent and now resides a considerable distance away in the
valley below.
36. Titanium
Beefsteaks (18) **** (TB)
Opening
party: Ian Manson and Gerald Camp (1988)
Left
of the 'Painted Desert' face there is a short
wall and then a chimney with a large euphorbia tree growing in front of it.
About 10 m further left there is a second large euphorbia (now falling apart –
July 2007). The route takes a line up the centre of the steep orange wall
between the two euphorbias. Starting from the ledge, climb straight up for
about 4m to a flake. Move left to another flake and then exit straight up on
small holds (crux).
37. Barry's Belay (10) ** (BB)
Opening
party: Bruce Tomalin and Barry Tomalin (22 July 2007)
Climb
the back of the recess that separates the 'Titanium' face from the 'Easter
Bunny' face. Exit to the right near top.
38. Easter
Bunny (10) ** (EB)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham, Anthony van Tonder and Rodney Owen (13 April 2001)
The
line is found towards the left-hand side of the short wall between the 'Painted Desert' and the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' faces.
Climb the obvious lay-away crack and then scramble straight up to a convenient
belay tree at the top of the crag.
The
next 9 routes are all located on the 'Painted Desert'
face which is immediately to the left of the scramble down and the overhead
power lines.
39. Sister
Moon (25) *** (SM)
Opening
party: Roger Nattrass (1988)
Start
near the left-hand end of the 'Painted Desert'
wall. Climb straight up the face past two bolts near the top. Very tricky !
40. Out of
the Past (16) *** (OP)
First
known ascent: Steve Salmon (1988). Apparently this route was opened earlier by
Ian Wallace and called 'Brain Magic'.
Start
a couple of metres to the right of 'Sister Moon' at the obvious recess / corner
in the 'Painted Desert' face. This is located
about 12 m to the left of the distinctive 'Mr Natural' crack. Climb the recess
to a rail with a thin vertical crack above. At this point do a balancy move far
to the right (the line crosses 'Into the Future' at this point) and climb a
sloping crack to the top.
41. Into the
Future (18) *** (IF)
First
known ascent: Steve Salmon (1988)
Start
about 1,5 m to the right of 'Out of the Past'. Climb the face to the rail. Move
slightly left (crossing Out of the Past) and then climb the thin crack above
the 'Out of the Past' recess. You can 'mix and match' various combinations
between this and the previous route.
42. Barefoot
in the Head (26) **** (BH)
Opening
party: Evan Wiercx (1989)
This
is an impressive line immediately to the left of the 'Painted
Desert'. Start below the peg (*) and climb straight up the wall,
moving slightly right near the top to finish as for 'The Painted Desert'. Bold
and tricky to protect!
(*)
This peg is in the same rail as the peg on 'Painted Desert',
but is located about 2 m further to the left.
43. Painted Desert (26) [Bolted] ***** (PD)
Opening
party: Roger Nattrass (1988)
This
outstanding route climbs the centre of the superb, blank wall below the
overhead power lines. Start at a layback hold and move up to the rail on the
right of a peg. Move across to just left of a peg and then climb straight up
the wall moving left near the top to the obvious finish.
This
route has now been retro-bolted by the opening ascentionist.
44. Mr
Natural (19) **** (MN)
Opening
party: Mike Roberts (1979)
Towards
the right-hand side of the 'Painted Desert'
face there is an obvious crack line that runs straight up to the top of the
crag. After a strenuous, technical start, climb straight up the crack to the top.
45. Missing
Link (11) ** (ML)
Opening
party: Unknown
At
the right-hand end of the 'Painted Desert'
face, and adjacent to the large block at the base of the scramble, is a large,
blocky crack line. Climb straight up the crack to the top of the crag.
46. Unnatural
(11) ** (UN)
Opening
party: Miles Holman and Gavin Raubenheimer (May 1993)
Climb
the short, steep face half way down the scramble and about 5 m to the right of
'Missing Link'.
A
steep scramble descends between 'Unnatural' and 'Flutterby'
Flutterby Area
47. Flutterby
(16) *** (FB)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (14 April 2001)
From
the base of the 'Painted Desert' face, walk to the right and continue along a
ledge for about 15 m past the bottom of the scramble until the ledge peters out
at a corner with a prominent, undercut arête about 4 m away on its right. Climb
the blocky crack in the corner (crux) for about 5 m until it is possible to
traverse out to the right, just below a heavily vegetated ledge to reach a
small stance on the arête. Climb the arête to the top, starting slightly left
of the arête, but moving onto the arête higher up. Very well protected.
Note:
There are some large, loose blocks on the traverse ledge. Step over these
carefully until someone can trundle them safely.
48. Tight Rope's
Traverse (16, 13) *** (TR)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (14 April 2001)
1.
Climb 'Flutterby' as far as the small stance on the arête.
2.
Traverse out to the right for 5 m to reach the base of a large open book that runs
straight up to the top of the crag. Climb the back of the open book, moving out
to the right just below the top.
Note:
Climbers wishing to bypass the crux start on the two routes above can walk out
to the right along a ledge about half way down the scramble. This gives access
to the traverse line on 'Flutterby'. The climbing from this point does not
exceed grade 13.
49. House
Arrest (17) ** (HA)
Opening
party: Trevor Burden and Grant Cockburn (1988)
About
10 m (?) to the right of the power lines is a large blocky roof. Start about 2
m to the right of the roof on smallish holds, going for a greasy rail. Climb
onto a small ledge and then move through the small roof veering slightly right.
Move 2 m left and then finish up over the bulge.
No
one seems to know where this route is - further info would be appreciated.
About
50 m beyond the 'Painted Desert' scramble and
below a patch of thick bush, is an easy angled grey face above a vegetated
ledge. The far (RHS) of the face ends at a steep gully with a large tree
growing almost horizontally out from the top of the crag. The next four routes
are located along this face. There are several suitable trees for belaying or
abseiling. There is an accumulation of small, loose rocks along the top of the
crag. Beware of dislodging these on climbers below whilst abseiling or topping
out. These routes can also be reached by scrambling down near the start of
'Flutterby' and walking along the base of the crags.
50. Space
Odyssey 2002 (19) [7B, C] **** (SO)
Opening
party: Anthony van Tonder (14 September 2002)
Easy
to locate - just look for the diagonal line of bolts - the only bolts in
this area. Step up onto the face then pull up strenuously (crux) to a good
ledge about 3 m up. Using thin under-clings, traverse delicately about 3 m to
the right to reach a shallow recess with 'lumpy' rock. Follow this up to the
chains.
51. Feeling
Groovy (15) *** (FG)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer, Gavin Peckham and Cesar de Carvalho (13 April 2001)
Towards
the left-hand side of the face described above there is a large fig tree
growing out of the face about half way up the crag. A couple of metres to the
right of the fig tree is a large, right-tending crack line. Climb to the top of
the crack, step left and then continue straight up the grey face above.
52. Fat Cat
(10) *** (FC)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (13 April 2001)
About
5 m to the right of 'Feeling Groovy' is a recess capped at about 4 m by a roof
with a small tree growing from under it. Climb the recess to the roof, step
left and then continue straight up the grey face above.
53. Thin
Blue Line (15) *** (TL)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (13 April 2001)
Start
about 3 m to the right of the 'Fat Cat' recess below three small, staggered
overlaps. Climb straight up to the top. The line becomes thin and balancy with
sparse gear near the top.
54. Spanner
Near the Works (18) *** (SW)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1988)
Just
past (to the right of) the previous face there is a long orange / grey face
undercut by an immense rectangular roof. The route starts below this roof.
After a boulder problem start, climb up the arête to avoid the overgrowth. Move
onto the face and climb up to the small roof, just to the left of the large
roof. Pull through this onto the face and continue straight up to the top.
55. Who
Forgot to Flush? (12) ** (WF)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Start
to the right of 'Spanner Near the Works'. Climb up the corner then move right
to the obvious crack.
All
the routes from here on can be most easily accessed by going down the scramble
at the end of the crag and then walking back along the base of the crag.
Fizzgig Fandango Area
56. Red and
Grey Chute (12) *** (RG)
Opening
party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (19 June 2001)
The
face on the main crag, immediately to the left of the Diamond Block, is split
midway by a distinctive V-shaped recess. Climb the deep, blocky crack to reach
a small tree at the base of the V-shaped recess. Step left to the arête and
climb this to the top.
57. Mutant
Banana (17) **** (MB)
Opening
party: Stewart Middlemiss and Linda Waldmann (1989)
Start
under the left-hand end of a narrow roof about 5 m to the left of the 'Fizzgig
Fandango' corner. Climb the face to the roof, exit left (balancy) and then
continue straight up the middle of the wall. Note: Another 'sandbag'. It
was originally graded at 15. It may even be an 18. The original RD conveniently
forgot to mention that there is virtually no gear. If you want to lead this
excellent line, you might as well solo it. Until the line is bolted, top-roping
is definitely the best option.
58. Captain
Hook (15) *** (CH)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham, Gavin Raubenheimer and Anthony van Tonder (19 June 2001)
Start
below a recess about 3 m to the left of the 'Fizzgig Fandango' corner. Climb
straight up onto a ledge below the recess. Pull up on a small chockstone (crux
- not visible from below) and then continue up the left-tending crack to the
top. Fairly sustained but good gear. Variations: (a) Start in the small, left-facing
corner a little further to the left. Climb up to the ledge, move to the right
to the bottom of the recess and then continue as above. (b) Start up 'This Way
Or That' for about 5m and then traverse left into the crack above the
chockstone - involves a couple of nice moves. (c) Just below the top, traverse
about 1 m to the left and then exit up the second crack.
59. This Way
Or That (18 or 8) *** or ** (TW)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Eric Penman (08 July 2001)
Start
at the left-hand tip of the Diamond Block, between 'Captain Hook' and 'Fizzgig
Fandango'. Climb the face up to the base of the crack. Jam up into the crack
(crux) and then follow the crack straight up to the top. The climb is about
grade 17 or 18 if you do not use the block behind you at all, but can be
reduced to a grade 8 or 9 scramble by bridging up between the crack-line and
the block - or any grade in-between depending on the extent.
The
next 3 routes are located on the prominent, free-standing 'Diamond Block' so
called because of its diamond shaped cross section. The top of the block is
level with the rest of the crag. The block is separated from the crag on two
sides by a narrow chimney. It is easy to step across from the crag onto the top
of the block. We plan to put abseil chains on this block to facilitate quick
access to the surrounding routes.
60. Fizzgig
Fandango (12) *** (FF)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Start
in the chimney at the left-hand tip of the Diamond Block. Chimney up and onto a
large chockstone about halfway up, then continue chimneying straight up to the
top. Gear is good except for a longish run-out above the chockstone.
61. Genghis
Khan (17) [7B, C] **** (GK)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham (13 April 2002)
This
route takes a line up the centre of the clean face on the Diamond Block
immediately to the right of 'Fizzgig Fandango'. Start with a gorilla take-off
using some wedged blocks, then climb straight up the face. If you choose to top
out on this line, then exit to the left of the anchors and the blocks at the top.
62. The
Gathering (25) **** (TG)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
This
line is located on the short but impressive face of the Diamond Block,
immediately to the right of the 'Ghengis Khan' face. Start on the ledge below
the face. This may be reached by traversing in from 'Rubbers in the Surf' on
the right, or by climbing an easy crack on the left. From the ledge, climb
straight up the face passing a peg (old!) and a bolt near the top. Sustained.
63. Rubbers
in the Surf (17) [Retro bolted] **** (RF)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Climb
straight up the centre of the wall on the main crag, just to the right of 'The
Gathering' face.
This
excellent route has now been retro-bolted by the opening ascentionist.
64. Close
But No Cigar (12) ** (CB)
Opening
party: Eric Penman and Gavin Peckham (08 July 2001)
Start
about 4m to the right and about 3m below the start of 'Rubbers in the Surf'.
Climb the jagged crack for 3m to a small tree and a ledge. Step right and up
onto a boulder. Pull through the overlap (crux) and continue easily up to the
top.
65. Hi Ho
Silver (14) *** (HH)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Eric Penman (08 July 2001)
Start
about 4m to the left of the tree at the base of a rubble-filled chimney. Climb
the 4m crack to a ledge. Climb the face, tending right until just below the
top, then exit by moving up diagonally left. The last gear is in a thin rail
about 2/3 of the way up. It may be wise to place a couple of pieces of gear
here.
66. High
Dive (15) ** (HD)
Opening
party: F Grandin and Francis Nanni (1988)
To
the right of a rubble-filled chimney there is a left-facing, bulging face. The
route follows an obvious line straight up the face to pull through a bulge.
67. Shaking
the Grass (18) *** (SG)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Start
just to the right of 'High Dive'. Climb the steep arête that leads up to the
point where the old fence juts out over the crag. (Looks like one of the
'sandbags'!)
68. Tooth
Mouse (12) ** (TM)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (14 April 2001)
Start
in the corner at the back of the second large recess to the right of the point
where the old fence juts out over the top of the crag. Climb the corner at the
back of the recess for about 4 m and then move out left onto the adjacent face
and climb straight up the middle of the face to the top. Exercise caution, as
there are a couple of suspect looking blocks. It is possible to avoid these
blocks, although they showed no sign of collapsing under the bulk of an ample,
ageing climber.
69. Crowning
Glory (10) * (CG)
Opening
party: Greg Wooding (07 April 2001)
Start
about 5 m to the left of the fence at the base of the crag. Climb the left
tending blocky line to reach the base of a smooth, 3 m corner (not visible from
below). Exit by climbing the nice layback crack in the corner.
The
next 3 routes are always in the shade - try these if it is too hot to climb
elsewhere.
70. Jungle
Bunny (14) *** (JB)
Opening
party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (03 June 2001)
This
line takes the arête on the right of the scramble down at the end of the crag.
Start among the trees at the bottom of the crag and directly below the
prominent arête above. Climb the right-hand edge of the prominent crack /
chimney to the chockstone and then up onto a platform of rock - about half way
up the scramble. Continue straight up the arête above. Gear is very sparse, but
adequate.
71. Gay Cats
Gone Crazy (20) *** (GC)
Opening
party: Gerald Camp (1989)
Start
4m to the right of 'Jungle Bunny' and 3m to the left of a huge, bushy crack
that runs the full height of the crag. Climb straight up on good holds for 4m.
Move up diagonally to the right on slopers to reach the base of a small,
orange, left-facing (!) open book. Climb the open book on rounded holds and
continue straight up to the top. The original RD says 'A scary pump on rounded
holds (true), with little gear.' - rubbish there is virtually no gear.
If you want to lead this excellent line, you might just as well solo it. Until
the line is bolted, top-roping is definitely the best option.
72. Rolling
Stones (21) *** (RS)
Opening
party: Stewart Middlemiss and Linda Waldman (1989)
This
route is about 10 m past the fenced off area on the nose at the end of the main
crag. Climb the obvious crack line that rune the full height of the crag.
Bomber gear if you have plenty of cams and hexes for the crack.
