Old Shongweni Route Descriptions

Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©


Note: These crags are on private property. It is essential to obtain prior permission from the landowner before climbing. Failure to do so will result in prosecution. There is a general consensus that many of the older routes are significantly under-graded and under protected by current standards - especially in the moderate grades - sandbags of note! Comments on the grades given below are welcomed. There are a few old pegs and bolts scattered about the crag. It would be best to check these thoroughly on top-rope before risking your life on them. Wedged blocks are a characteristic of routes on some parts of the crag. Whilst many of these have withstood vigorous attempts to dislodge them, it would still be wise to treat such blocks with extreme caution.

There are two easy scrambles at the farmhouse end of the crag. These are about 20 m and 35 m back from the 'first' electricity pole and both angle down to the right as you look out over the top of the crag. There is a steep scramble-down 5 m after the point where the power lines cross the crag and another at the furthest point from the farm house. It is possible to walk fairly easily along the base of the crag in most areas, but sometimes it is quicker abseil from one of the trees or other convenient points.

All the routes described below are listed from left to right starting at the left-hand end of the crag which is nearest to the farm house. The first 11 routes are on the farmhouse side of the first electricity pole. They easily reached by going down one of the scrambles and walking along the bottom of the crag. These routes are all very short and generally easy. This is a good shady area to take your grandmother climbing !




Electric Pole Area


The first 11 routes are on the farmhouse side of the first electricity pole. They easily reached by going down one of the scrambles and walking along the bottom of the crag. These routes are all very short and generally easy. This is a good shady area to take your grandmother climbing !


1.      Cry Wolf (15) ** (CW)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Neil Peckham (01 September 2002)

Start about 20 m to the left of the first easy scramble - more or less in front of the farmhouse at a short, right-facing corner that is capped by a small roof. Stem up the corner to the jug under the roof then step out to the right to exit. There is no significant gear low down.

2.      Baby Face (10) * (BF)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)

Start 2 m to the left of 'Tweedle Dum' under a protruding nose of rock. Climb up 3 m then step left onto the end of a large ledge. Climb up a few moves until it is possible to step out to the right onto the top of the protruding nose using a small, concealed hold around the corner to the right. Finish straight up.

3.      Tweedle Dum (09) * (TU)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)

Start as for 'Tweedle Dee' but tend left, to reach the base of recess on the left to the 'Tweedle Dee' arête. From the recess, step up left onto a ledge and then exit straight up. It is harder than 9 if you start of slightly to the left of 'Tweedle Dee'.

4.      Tweedle Dee (08) * (TE)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)

Go down the scramble is located about 35 m back towards the farmhouse from the first electricity pole. At the bottom of the scramble, on the edge closest to the farmhouse, there is a small, weathered stump at the base of the rock. Start just left of the stump and climb straight up the face for about 3 m to reach a tiny arête between two recesses. Climb straight up the arête to the top.

5.      On Root (13) [4B, C] ** (OR)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)

About 10 m to the right of 'Tweedle Dee' there is a fig tree at the top of the crag. Start just left of a long, arm-thick root descends all the way from the tree to the ground. Climb up and mantle onto a ledge about 3 m up, then climb straight up the middle of the clean, gray face to the chains. Using the root prior to the mantle makes life much easier!

6.      After the Rain (10) ** (AR)

Opening party: Bruce Sobey and Gavin Peckham (20 November 2005)

Climb the short face about 2 m to the right of 'On Root'.

7.      Fig Jam (13) ** (FJ)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Greg Wooding (17 August 2002)

Start 5 m to the right of 'On Root', just to the right of the fig tree at the top of the crag, but just left of a deep off-width. Climb straight up to the top. Using the fig tree branches or the block to the right of the off-width is 'off limits'. Well protected.

 

There is an easy scramble between 'Fig Jam' and 'Pumpkin Eater'.

 

8.      Pumpkin Eater (14) ** (PE)

Opening party: Greg Wooding and Gavin Peckham (17 August 2002)

Start 5 m to the right of 'Fig Jam' under a small overhang 2 m up. Stem up past the overhang and then climb straight up the orange, lichen-infested face above. Gear is adequate but sparse.

9.      Witch's Brew (17) **** (WB)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Neil Peckham (01 September 2002)

Start about 3 m to the right of 'Pumpkin Eater', below a large, overhanging block at the top of the crag. Climb straight up the clean face and exit to the right of the block using a series of lay away holds. An alternative exit to the left of the block has not yet been attempted.

10.  Have We Sunk to This? (09) ** (HW)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Bruce Sobey (11 November 2005)

Start about 10 m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' and just to the left of a tree at the bottom of the crag. Climb straight up to a ledge and then up blocks to the top.

11.  Any Which Way (13) *** (AW)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Greg Wooding (17 August 2002)

Start about 15 m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' at some crumpled-looking orange rock with right-tending grooves. Climb up for about 4 m and then continue up diagonally right, past a small tree to reach a large ledge. Walk across to the right hand end of the ledge and then climb straight up to the top where you can belay on one of the old metal bollards.

Projects: About 14 m to the right of 'Any Which Way' there is a narrow, right-facing face and a deep, right-tending corner crack. Gavin Peckham is working on the face, whilst Greg Wooding is working on the corner crack.

 

Verooka Palooka Area



The next 8 routes from 'Planet Digit' up to 'Pas de Deux' are all in the same (Verooka Palooka) open book which is located about 20 m beyond the first electricity pole as you walk-in to the crags. It is easiest to access these routes by abseiling down the 'Verooka Palooka' corner.

 

12.  Planet Digit (22) *** (PT)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

This route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2 m to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the left.

13.  Planet Digit Direct (23) ****

Opening party: Stephan Isebeck (1989)

Start as for 'Planet Digit' and climb straight up the face past the bolt.

14.  Moon on Ice (23) [xB; C] **** (MI)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start immediately to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Follow the obvious break above, finishing up the wall past the bolt.

Gerald has recently (2007) retro-bolted this route.

15.  Challenger (22) *** (CR)

Opening party: Ian Guest (1989)

Start on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top past two bolts.

16.  Verooka Palooka (14) [xB; C] ** (VP)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

This route takes the crack up the corner of the open book. Climb easily up to an awkward exit.

Gerald has recently (2007) retro-bolted this route.

Apparently the chains provide an easy ab point to access the routes in this area.

17.  Pig (20) ** (PG)

Opening party: John Rolfe and Linda Waldman (1989)

Start 2 m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb straight up the face pulling through the roofs above.

18.  Slap and Tickle (15) ** (ST)

Opening party: Grant Cockburn and Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)

Start 4 m to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' corner. Climb up to a small ledge with a bush and pull through the roof above.

19.  Pas de Deux (12) ** (PX)

Opening party: A Malherbe and Gerald Camp (1989)

From the bottom of 'Verooka Palooka', traverse easily along the ledge on the right-hand face. From near the end of the ledge, climb straight up the face.

20.  Girlfriend in a Coma (18) [4B; C] ** (GF)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start at the base of the roofs just around the corner to the right of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Climb up to the bulge and crank through on the left. Move up to the roof above and pull through onto the ramp.

Gerald has recently (2007) retro-bolted this route.

 

The next 4 routes up to 'Bandaloop' are all in the same (Clockworks) open book which is located about 40 m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka'.

 

21.  Clockworks (17) [5B; C] ** (CK)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

About 40 m to the right of 'Verooka Palooka' there is another large open book with blocky chimney up the corner. The left-hand face of this open book is a clean, orange/grey wall with a fig tree on a ledge near the top. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©  Start near the middle of the left-hand face by a 1 m high, semi-detached block. Climb the crack and then tend left up the face avoiding the broken rock on the right. Exit just to the right of the tree.

Gerald has recently (2008) retro-bolted this route.

22.  Doggone (14) ** (DG)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Miles Holman (May 1993)

Start about 1 m to the left of 'Clockworks' and about 4 m to the right of the chimney in the corner. Climb the obvious blocky break and then go diagonally to the right up the good face to finish just to the right of a fig tree.

(It seems that this route is just an easier variation of 'Clockworks'.)

23.  Maniacal Expertise (24) **** (ME)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

This line takes the left-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Clockworks' and 'Doggone'. Start below the peg and climb straight up the face, exiting slightly to the right.

24.  Bandaloop (20) *** (BP)

Opening party: Gerald Camp and Dave Robertson (1989)

Start just to the right of 'Maniacal Expertise' and climb the face past a block which appears to be loose.

25.  Was It That Long Ago? (13) *** (WI)

Opening party: Gerald Camp and Luke Wijnberg (22 June 2001)

Start just around the corner to the right of 'Bandaloop'. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©  Climb the arête on the left of the small face. A short, steep section can be avoided by moving to the right, then up and back left onto the arête. The protection is good.


Painted Desert Area




The next 3 routes up to 'Post Modern' are all in the same (Big Mamma) open book. This is located about 120 m beyond 'Verooka Palooka' and immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree Amphitheatre' - see below. There is plenty of potential for new routes in the 50 odd metres between 'Was It That Long Ago?' and 'Green Streaked Nose'.

 

26.  Green Streaked Nose (21) *** (GS)

Opening party: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Simon Joubert (1989)

Climb up the centre of the face to the left of 'Big Mamma' and pull through the middle of the roof. Finish anywhere up the face above. A great move through the roof.

27.  15. Big Mamma (11) ** (BM)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (07 November 1993)

Start in the large open book recess immediately to the left of 'Dixie' and the 'Fig Tree amphitheatre'. Climb up the back of the open book to a roof at 5 m. Pull through on the right (awkward) and then up more easily. Step to the right near the top to avoid a loose block.

28.  Modern Post Fragmented Neo-Traditionalist Boulder Problem (22) ** (BP)

Opening party: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Simon Joubert (1989)

Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break. (People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)

 

The next 6 routes up to 'Woops' are all in the same (Dixie) open book which is located immediately to the left of the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' face.

 

29.  Frog (16) ** (FG)

Opening party: Andrew Russell-Boulton, Ron Uken and Simon Joubert (1989)

Start under a small roof formed by a block about 3 m up and about 4 m to the left of 'Cool Jewelled Moon'. Climb left past the roof and then up the orange and black face above.

30.  .Cool Jewelled Moon (25) *** (CJ)

Opening party: Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)

Start at a perfect, rectangular, undercling pocket about 5 m to the left of the 'Dixie' corner. Crank up past a very old peg to a roof. Pull through the centre of the roof and continue up the face above.

31.  Dixie (13) ** (DX)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Miles Holman (May 1993)

Just around the corner, to the left of the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' face is a large bay / small amphitheatre that is shaded by a large fig tree growing out from the top of the crag. Start at the main, central corner in the 'fig tree amphitheatre' and climb the short layback crack to the top. DANGER: During July 2007 we noticed that the bottom of this route has collapsed but retains a 3 m column of unstable perched blocks that look extremely dangerous !

32.  Mantis Mania (20) *** (MM)

Opening party: Grant Cockburn and Simon Joubert (1989)

Start 2 m to the left of 'Milk of Paradise'. Climb up the vague crack in the wall to a small, stepped roof. Move right and follow the crack to the top. Gear is tricky. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©

33.  Milk of Paradise (20) *** (MP)

Opening party: Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)

Start in a shallow recess towards the right-hand side of the wall to the right of 'Dixie'. Climb straight up the face, pulling the small roof encountered halfway up.

34.  Woops (13) *** (WP)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (07 November 1993)

Start as for 'Milk of Paradise' about 10 m to the right of 'Dixie'. Climb up the broken recess for about 4 m then traverse out to the right to reach the arête and exit straight up.

 

The next 2 routes are both on the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' face which is just to the left of the 'Painted Desert' face and separated from it by a short, low wall.

 

35.  Rock Around the Block (15) *** (RA)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (07 November 1993)

Start on the ledge 1 m to the left of Titanium Beefsteaks'. Climb up diagonally left for 5 m to the obvious arête. Then move up diagonally to the right for 3 m until it is possible to exit straight up easily on good holds. The 'block' fell off on the opening ascent and now resides a considerable distance away in the valley below.

36.  Titanium Beefsteaks (18) **** (TB)

Opening party: Ian Manson and Gerald Camp (1988)

Left of the 'Painted Desert' face there is a short wall and then a chimney with a large euphorbia tree growing in front of it. About 10 m further left there is a second large euphorbia (now falling apart – July 2007). The route takes a line up the centre of the steep orange wall between the two euphorbias. Starting from the ledge, climb straight up for about 4m to a flake. Move left to another flake and then exit straight up on small holds (crux).

37.  Barry's Belay (10) ** (BB)

Opening party: Bruce Tomalin and Barry Tomalin (22 July 2007)

Climb the back of the recess that separates the 'Titanium' face from the 'Easter Bunny' face.  Exit to the right near top.

38.  Easter Bunny (10) ** (EB)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham, Anthony van Tonder and Rodney Owen (13 April 2001)

The line is found towards the left-hand side of the short wall between the 'Painted Desert' and the 'Titanium Beefsteaks' faces. Climb the obvious lay-away crack and then scramble straight up to a convenient belay tree at the top of the crag.

 

The next 9 routes are all located on the 'Painted Desert' face which is immediately to the left of the scramble down and the overhead power lines.

 

39.  Sister Moon (25) *** (SM)

Opening party: Roger Nattrass (1988)

Start near the left-hand end of the 'Painted Desert' wall. Climb straight up the face past two bolts near the top. Very tricky !

40.  Out of the Past (16) *** (OP)

First known ascent: Steve Salmon (1988). Apparently this route was opened earlier by Ian Wallace and called 'Brain Magic'.

Start a couple of metres to the right of 'Sister Moon' at the obvious recess / corner in the 'Painted Desert' face. This is located about 12 m to the left of the distinctive 'Mr Natural' crack. Climb the recess to a rail with a thin vertical crack above. At this point do a balancy move far to the right (the line crosses 'Into the Future' at this point) and climb a sloping crack to the top.

41.  Into the Future (18) *** (IF)

First known ascent: Steve Salmon (1988)

Start about 1,5 m to the right of 'Out of the Past'. Climb the face to the rail. Move slightly left (crossing Out of the Past) and then climb the thin crack above the 'Out of the Past' recess. You can 'mix and match' various combinations between this and the previous route.

42.  Barefoot in the Head (26) **** (BH)

Opening party: Evan Wiercx (1989)

This is an impressive line immediately to the left of the 'Painted Desert'. Start below the peg (*) and climb straight up the wall, moving slightly right near the top to finish as for 'The Painted Desert'. Bold and tricky to protect!

(*) This peg is in the same rail as the peg on 'Painted Desert', but is located about 2 m further to the left.

43.  Painted Desert (26) [Bolted] ***** (PD)

Opening party: Roger Nattrass (1988)

This outstanding route climbs the centre of the superb, blank wall below the overhead power lines. Start at a layback hold and move up to the rail on the right of a peg. Move across to just left of a peg and then climb straight up the wall moving left near the top to the obvious finish.

This route has now been retro-bolted by the opening ascentionist.

44.  Mr Natural (19) **** (MN)

Opening party: Mike Roberts (1979)

Towards the right-hand side of the 'Painted Desert' face there is an obvious crack line that runs straight up to the top of the crag. After a strenuous, technical start, climb straight up the crack to the top.

45.  Missing Link (11) ** (ML)

Opening party: Unknown

At the right-hand end of the 'Painted Desert' face, and adjacent to the large block at the base of the scramble, is a large, blocky crack line. Climb straight up the crack to the top of the crag.

46.  Unnatural (11) ** (UN)

Opening party: Miles Holman and Gavin Raubenheimer (May 1993)

Climb the short, steep face half way down the scramble and about 5 m to the right of 'Missing Link'.

 

A steep scramble descends between 'Unnatural' and 'Flutterby'


Flutterby Area




47.  Flutterby (16) *** (FB)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (14 April 2001)

From the base of the 'Painted Desert' face, walk to the right and continue along a ledge for about 15 m past the bottom of the scramble until the ledge peters out at a corner with a prominent, undercut arête about 4 m away on its right. Climb the blocky crack in the corner (crux) for about 5 m until it is possible to traverse out to the right, just below a heavily vegetated ledge to reach a small stance on the arête. Climb the arête to the top, starting slightly left of the arête, but moving onto the arête higher up. Very well protected.

Note: There are some large, loose blocks on the traverse ledge. Step over these carefully until someone can trundle them safely.

48.  Tight Rope's Traverse (16, 13) *** (TR)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (14 April 2001)

1. Climb 'Flutterby' as far as the small stance on the arête.

2. Traverse out to the right for 5 m to reach the base of a large open book that runs straight up to the top of the crag. Climb the back of the open book, moving out to the right just below the top.

Note: Climbers wishing to bypass the crux start on the two routes above can walk out to the right along a ledge about half way down the scramble. This gives access to the traverse line on 'Flutterby'. The climbing from this point does not exceed grade 13.

49.  House Arrest (17) ** (HA)

Opening party: Trevor Burden and Grant Cockburn (1988)

About 10 m (?) to the right of the power lines is a large blocky roof. Start about 2 m to the right of the roof on smallish holds, going for a greasy rail. Climb onto a small ledge and then move through the small roof veering slightly right. Move 2 m left and then finish up over the bulge.

No one seems to know where this route is - further info would be appreciated.

 

About 50 m beyond the 'Painted Desert' scramble and below a patch of thick bush, is an easy angled grey face above a vegetated ledge. The far (RHS) of the face ends at a steep gully with a large tree growing almost horizontally out from the top of the crag. The next four routes are located along this face. There are several suitable trees for belaying or abseiling. There is an accumulation of small, loose rocks along the top of the crag. Beware of dislodging these on climbers below whilst abseiling or topping out. These routes can also be reached by scrambling down near the start of 'Flutterby' and walking along the base of the crags.

 

50.  Space Odyssey 2002 (19) [7B, C] **** (SO)

Opening party: Anthony van Tonder (14 September 2002)

Easy to locate - just look for the diagonal line of bolts - the only bolts in this area. Step up onto the face then pull up strenuously (crux) to a good ledge about 3 m up. Using thin under-clings, traverse delicately about 3 m to the right to reach a shallow recess with 'lumpy' rock. Follow this up to the chains.

51.  Feeling Groovy (15) *** (FG)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer, Gavin Peckham and Cesar de Carvalho (13 April 2001)

Towards the left-hand side of the face described above there is a large fig tree growing out of the face about half way up the crag. A couple of metres to the right of the fig tree is a large, right-tending crack line. Climb to the top of the crack, step left and then continue straight up the grey face above.

52.  Fat Cat (10) *** (FC)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (13 April 2001)

About 5 m to the right of 'Feeling Groovy' is a recess capped at about 4 m by a roof with a small tree growing from under it. Climb the recess to the roof, step left and then continue straight up the grey face above.

53.  Thin Blue Line (15) *** (TL)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (13 April 2001)

Start about 3 m to the right of the 'Fat Cat' recess below three small, staggered overlaps. Climb straight up to the top. The line becomes thin and balancy with sparse gear near the top.

54.  Spanner Near the Works (18) *** (SW)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1988)

Just past (to the right of) the previous face there is a long orange / grey face undercut by an immense rectangular roof. The route starts below this roof. After a boulder problem start, climb up the arête to avoid the overgrowth. Move onto the face and climb up to the small roof, just to the left of the large roof. Pull through this onto the face and continue straight up to the top.

55.  Who Forgot to Flush? (12) ** (WF)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start to the right of 'Spanner Near the Works'. Climb up the corner then move right to the obvious crack. 

 

All the routes from here on can be most easily accessed by going down the scramble at the end of the crag and then walking back along the base of the crag. 

 

Fizzgig Fandango Area




56.  Red and Grey Chute (12) *** (RG)

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (19 June 2001)

The face on the main crag, immediately to the left of the Diamond Block, is split midway by a distinctive V-shaped recess. Climb the deep, blocky crack to reach a small tree at the base of the V-shaped recess. Step left to the arête and climb this to the top.

57.  Mutant Banana (17) **** (MB)

Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss and Linda Waldmann (1989)

Start under the left-hand end of a narrow roof about 5 m to the left of the 'Fizzgig Fandango' corner. Climb the face to the roof, exit left (balancy) and then continue straight up the middle of the wall. Note: Another 'sandbag'. It was originally graded at 15. It may even be an 18. The original RD conveniently forgot to mention that there is virtually no gear. If you want to lead this excellent line, you might as well solo it. Until the line is bolted, top-roping is definitely the best option.

58.  Captain Hook (15) *** (CH)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham, Gavin Raubenheimer and Anthony van Tonder (19 June 2001)

Start below a recess about 3 m to the left of the 'Fizzgig Fandango' corner. Climb straight up onto a ledge below the recess. Pull up on a small chockstone (crux - not visible from below) and then continue up the left-tending crack to the top. Fairly sustained but good gear. Variations: (a) Start in the small, left-facing corner a little further to the left. Climb up to the ledge, move to the right to the bottom of the recess and then continue as above. (b) Start up 'This Way Or That' for about 5m and then traverse left into the crack above the chockstone - involves a couple of nice moves. (c) Just below the top, traverse about 1 m to the left and then exit up the second crack.

59.  This Way Or That (18 or 8) *** or ** (TW)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Eric Penman (08 July 2001)

Start at the left-hand tip of the Diamond Block, between 'Captain Hook' and 'Fizzgig Fandango'. Climb the face up to the base of the crack. Jam up into the crack (crux) and then follow the crack straight up to the top. The climb is about grade 17 or 18 if you do not use the block behind you at all, but can be reduced to a grade 8 or 9 scramble by bridging up between the crack-line and the block - or any grade in-between depending on the extent.

 

The next 3 routes are located on the prominent, free-standing 'Diamond Block' so called because of its diamond shaped cross section. The top of the block is level with the rest of the crag. The block is separated from the crag on two sides by a narrow chimney. It is easy to step across from the crag onto the top of the block. We plan to put abseil chains on this block to facilitate quick access to the surrounding routes.

 

60.  Fizzgig Fandango (12) *** (FF)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start in the chimney at the left-hand tip of the Diamond Block. Chimney up and onto a large chockstone about halfway up, then continue chimneying straight up to the top. Gear is good except for a longish run-out above the chockstone.

61.  Genghis Khan (17) [7B, C] **** (GK)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (13 April 2002)

This route takes a line up the centre of the clean face on the Diamond Block immediately to the right of 'Fizzgig Fandango'. Start with a gorilla take-off using some wedged blocks, then climb straight up the face. If you choose to top out on this line, then exit to the left of the anchors and the blocks at the top.

62.  The Gathering (25) **** (TG)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

This line is located on the short but impressive face of the Diamond Block, immediately to the right of the 'Ghengis Khan' face. Start on the ledge below the face. This may be reached by traversing in from 'Rubbers in the Surf' on the right, or by climbing an easy crack on the left. From the ledge, climb straight up the face passing a peg (old!) and a bolt near the top. Sustained.

63.  Rubbers in the Surf (17) [Retro bolted] **** (RF)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Climb straight up the centre of the wall on the main crag, just to the right of 'The Gathering' face.

This excellent route has now been retro-bolted by the opening ascentionist.

64.  Close But No Cigar (12) ** (CB)

Opening party: Eric Penman and Gavin Peckham (08 July 2001)

Start about 4m to the right and about 3m below the start of 'Rubbers in the Surf'. Climb the jagged crack for 3m to a small tree and a ledge. Step right and up onto a boulder. Pull through the overlap (crux) and continue easily up to the top.

65.  Hi Ho Silver (14) *** (HH)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Eric Penman (08 July 2001)

Start about 4m to the left of the tree at the base of a rubble-filled chimney. Climb the 4m crack to a ledge. Climb the face, tending right until just below the top, then exit by moving up diagonally left. The last gear is in a thin rail about 2/3 of the way up. It may be wise to place a couple of pieces of gear here.

66.  High Dive (15) ** (HD)

Opening party: F Grandin and Francis Nanni (1988)

To the right of a rubble-filled chimney there is a left-facing, bulging face. The route follows an obvious line straight up the face to pull through a bulge.

67.  Shaking the Grass (18) *** (SG)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start just to the right of 'High Dive'. Climb the steep arête that leads up to the point where the old fence juts out over the crag. (Looks like one of the 'sandbags'!)

68.  Tooth Mouse (12) ** (TM)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (14 April 2001)

Start in the corner at the back of the second large recess to the right of the point where the old fence juts out over the top of the crag. Climb the corner at the back of the recess for about 4 m and then move out left onto the adjacent face and climb straight up the middle of the face to the top. Exercise caution, as there are a couple of suspect looking blocks. It is possible to avoid these blocks, although they showed no sign of collapsing under the bulk of an ample, ageing climber.

69.  Crowning Glory (10) * (CG)

Opening party: Greg Wooding (07 April 2001)

Start about 5 m to the left of the fence at the base of the crag. Climb the left tending blocky line to reach the base of a smooth, 3 m corner (not visible from below). Exit by climbing the nice layback crack in the corner.

 

The next 3 routes are always in the shade - try these if it is too hot to climb elsewhere.

 

70.  Jungle Bunny (14) *** (JB)

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (03 June 2001)

This line takes the arête on the right of the scramble down at the end of the crag. Start among the trees at the bottom of the crag and directly below the prominent arête above. Climb the right-hand edge of the prominent crack / chimney to the chockstone and then up onto a platform of rock - about half way up the scramble. Continue straight up the arête above. Gear is very sparse, but adequate.

71.  Gay Cats Gone Crazy (20) *** (GC)

Opening party: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start 4m to the right of 'Jungle Bunny' and 3m to the left of a huge, bushy crack that runs the full height of the crag. Climb straight up on good holds for 4m. Move up diagonally to the right on slopers to reach the base of a small, orange, left-facing (!) open book. Climb the open book on rounded holds and continue straight up to the top. The original RD says 'A scary pump on rounded holds (true), with little gear.' - rubbish there is virtually no gear. If you want to lead this excellent line, you might just as well solo it. Until the line is bolted, top-roping is definitely the best option.

72.  Rolling Stones (21) *** (RS)

Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss and Linda Waldman (1989)

This route is about 10 m past the fenced off area on the nose at the end of the main crag. Climb the obvious crack line that rune the full height of the crag. Bomber gear if you have plenty of cams and hexes for the crack.

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