Monteseel: Odds & Sods

Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©

The following climbs are taken from Roy Gooden and Adrian Hill’s 1981 "Rock Climbs at Monteseel" and complete the list of climbs at Monteseel. They are either obscure, of uncertain whereabouts or just plain best avoided, and are included to expose the not-so-serious side of climbing at Monteseel. So if you are planning to claim the first ascent of a horrible vegetated thrutch on crumbling rock, read on - it has probably been done, probably by someone quite famous!!

 

Eastern Buttress

 

Twins (12)

Opened in 1979 by Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw to the left of Necrosis.

 

Farewell Angelina (16)

Opened in 1977 by Rodney Owen, Carless Freer and Mike van Wierengen. It takes the vague arete between the scramble and Enema. Bits have since fallen off. A couple of interesting moves, but otherwise.....

 

Cinderella Rockefella

Opened by Dave Cheesemond, the route has turned into a pumpkin and disappeared.

 

Chocolate Tokolosh (11)

Opened in 1979 by Mike Roberts and Alan Manson to the left of Long Drop. The highlight of Microbe’s climbing career.

 

Coma (19, A1)

Opened by Mike Roberts and Mervyn Gans in 1978, and though to be situated somewhere left of Cadenza.

 

First Class (?)

Takes the second recess left of Cadenza.

 

Impulse (14)

Thought to partially follow Black Diedre, crossed Gentle Aquarian to exit by the top of New Hoek.

 

Crumble (14)

Opened by Paul Bridgman, this route follows a break in poor rock to the right of Tired Geddon and ends on the ledge below Winnie-the-Pooh.

 

Owl (9)

Follows a line immediately right of the scramble down to Tired Geddon.

 

Ramble (17)

A two-pitch route opened in 1978 by Mike Roberts and Rich Smithers. Takes the break to the right of Owl and traverses left to exit. A number of parties have laid claim to this line since then.

 

Cold Feet (8)

The obvious corner between Hot Seat and Satellite. Used as a scramble down.

 

Stalk (10)

Lost. Became a triffid and wandered off.

 

Pink Link (12)

Now the missing link.

 

Long Stop (18, A1)

Opened by Dave Shuttleworth, this route takes the corner between Top Heavy and Sweet Fanny Adams, and exits on the left-hand side of the final Zig-Zag face.

 

Opposition (A1)

A redundant aid route to the left of Republican.

 

Eve

A variation on the left of the Cain Face.

 

None (12)

A real non-entity. Follows the edge to the left of Adams Apoplexy.

 

Kids Trick (15)

A boulder problem to the right of the No Hands crack. Follows the crack through the overhang to finish on the Fallout ledge.

 

Gerry’s G, Hot Plate and Pot Boiler variations

Every possible line on this easy face has been climbed by countless beginners, daring soloists and marauding hordes during the filming of the television series 'Shaka Zulu'. 'New routes' on this face are claimed with embarrassing regularity.

 

Lower Middle Buttress 

 

Hot Dog (8)

Left of Roy’s D. Never climbed and not worth worrying about.

 

Handover (10)

Opened in 1978 by Bern Henriksen and Carless Freer. Scrapes up between Gin and Vermouth, and Pink Gin.

 

Jim’s Jaunt (8)

Right of Gin and Vermouth, otherwise as per Hot Dog. Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©

 

Western Buttress

Right Angle Overhang (15)

Opened in the early 1940’s by Sherman Ripley. Takes the obvious chimney right of Angel Dust. Never climbed due to poor rock.

 

UFO (12)

Opened by Bern Henriksen, Alex Simoni and Ian Wallace in 1979. The "in" route for green-fingered climbers. The climb takes the open-book immediately right of Two Thousand and One. It starts with a chimney up a cactus plant and provides a thrutch through a trees, bushes, nettles and an enormous loose block. If this inspires you then go for it.

 

K1, K2 and DEF

All opened by Des Watkins. Poor routes on poor rock to the left of Come Short. Never climbed.

 

Wanderlust (12)

Opened in 1978 by Brian Shuttleworth and Gordon Bulter. Somewhere in the Pee Wee area.

 

Double Exposure (14)

Opened by Des Watkins in 1954. Somewhere to the right of Fig Tree.

 

Over Exposed (14)

Right of Double Exposure.

 

Father’s Day (10)

Opened by Frank Woodward. Somewhere to the right of Over Exposed.

 

Blackjack (13)

Opened by Charl Brummer and Jim Frew in 1980 for no apparent reason. Another garden route.

 

Underworld (12)

Opened in 1978 by Mike Roberts and Rich Smithers. Takes a line between the last pitch of Utopia and Hades.

 

Rollover (14)

Opened in 1978 by Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts somewhere on the extreme western cliff. Exact position unknown.

 

Breakaway (15)

Opened in 1977 by Rich Smithers and Ladson Hayes to somewhere to the right of Rollover, wherever that is.

 

Barefoot in the Park (17)

Opened in 1978 by Brian Shuttleworth, Rich Smithers and Alex Simoni. Right of Breakaway.

 

ApolloXI (15)

Opened in 1969 by John Collings and Vic van Reenen. Lost in space.

Comments