Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©

Black Diedre Area (The BPSO to Last Rite)

Black Diedre takes the obvious dark, west-facing corner that is clearly visible from the path along the top of the cliff. Climbs in this area are best reached by abseil. The usual ab point is the large fig tree in the corner above Virgin (about fifty metres west of Black Diedre). From here it is possible to traverse along a narrow ledge to avoid the bush at the bottom of the crag. . There are several other convenient ab points at various points along the top of the crag.

The Big Pink Stiff One (25) * * * *

First ascent: A. Lamming, 1993

About thirty paces on the eastern side of Black Diedre is a single bolt belay at the top of the crag. The climb is directly below and is protected by three bolts, a number 1½ Friend and a no 5 Rock. The first ascentionist bets that you don’t flash it!

Cadenza (18) * * code: CA

First ascent: Adrian Hill, 1978

Variation: Mike Roberts

Strenuous and not so well protected. Start two metres left of New Hoek. Climb up a vague crack for two metres and then traverse left on small holds to the edge of the face. Climb directly up to a small ledge and then finish up the face above. As a variation, climb straight up a shallow recess from the start and then traverse left to the original line.

New Hoek (11) * * * code: NH

First ascent: Tony Ferrar, 1963

An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block, tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face.

Gentle Aquarian (17) * * * * code: GA

First ascent: Mike Roberts, Mervyn Gans and Carless Freer, 1977

A classic. Sustained and steep in a great position. Start three metres right of New Hoek, around the corner. Pull up around a bulge and climb directly up a steep break to a small ledge. Climb a short face past a peg and then move left onto the corner. Follow a crack to the top.

Gemini Dream (17) * * * code: GD

First ascent: Roy Gooden and Steve Bradshaw, 1982

Start in the obvious corner two metres to the right of Gentle Aquarian. Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left and up to reach a small ledge. Climb up the face heading slightly left to reach a peg. Move up to reach another ledge and then traverse right for two metres, where the route touches on Black Diedre. Move back left around the corner to a thin crack which is followed to the top.

Black Diedre (14) * * * * code: BD

First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the cliff.

Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

The Fire Still Remains (19) * * *

First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Gerald Camp, 1989

Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right (peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then pull through the roof and continue to the top.

Free Ride (17) * * * * code: FR

First ascent: Mike Roberts, Ian Wallace and Charl Brummer, 1979

This route follows the old aid route Middle Age opened by Colin and Dave Shuttleworth in the early 70’s. Start on a small ledge about six metres up and to the right of the start to Black Diedre. It is best to belay from the lower ledge.

Climb diagonally right to the middle of the wall and then up to an obvious rail. Move up and right to exit up a shallow groove.

A Cold Fact (18) * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp, 1988

Start as for Stormbringer. Climb up the face to a peg. Climb directly up the face above to a rail, passing a blade peg to the right. Finish up the same groove as Free Ride. Led out and sustained.

Stormbringer (22) * * code: SBR

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1980

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top.

Fingertrip Trip (17,23) * * * code: FTP

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

Start in the faint recess ten metres to the left of Old Man’s Climb.

(1) Climb diagonally left to break through a roof and continue on thin holds to the corner. Climb up the wall to the big ledge.

(2) Climb the vague recess on the right hand side of the ledge. Technically overgraded due to lack of protection on this pitch.

Old Man’s Climb (16,16) * * * code: OMC

First ascent: Sherman Ripley, Jim Thomson and Gordon Bulter, 1968

Variation: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

One of Monteseel’s classic climbs. Start at the base of an undercut open book.

(1) Pull up into the open book recess and follow this for five metres and then traverse left past two pegs under an overhang to a corner. Move up the corner for three metres and traverse left onto the ledge.

(2) Climb the obvious recess from the ledge, or alternatively climb the face diagonally to the right (15), which offers excellent, but unprotected climbing.

Old Man’s Climb Direct (17) * * * *

First ascent: Brian Shuttleworth and Carless Freer, 1978

Includes most of the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb which is continued with some exciting climbing in a great position.

Climb the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb, but instead of traversing left to the ledge, traverse right around the corner and continue directly up to the top.

Youngster’s Line (20) * * * code: YL

First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

First free ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1978

Originally opened with two points of aid. A direct and steep line. Start five metres to the right of Old Man’s Climb. Pull through a small overhang and climb up to a small ledge at the base of a small roof. Pull through the roof into a steep recess and up to a tree about five metres higher. Continue up the break for three metres and then traverse right past two pegs to a shallow scoop. Exit diagonally to the left.

Lurkules (19) *

First ascent: Stewart Middlemiss and Mike Hislop, 1989

Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike. Continue up and left, finishing up the groove.

Generation Gap ( 18) * code: GG

First ascent: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978

Start in the big corner right of Youngster’s Line. Climb the large crack/chimney to an obvious traverse onto the left hand wall. At the end of the traverse, climb up and break through the roof to finish. The second half is better than the first.

Microphobia (19) * * * code:MA

First ascent: Alan Manson, Paul Firman and Pete Muir, 1979

A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly right and pull onto the face above to exit.

Whippersnapper (19) * * * code: WH

First ascent: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1976

A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang. Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the left.

Highball Shooter (22) * * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

Slut (22) * *

First ascent: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1983

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

Sister Morphine (23) * * *

First ascent: Tim Hoole, 1989

Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook.

Virgin (13) * * code: VGN

First ascent: Sherman Ripley, Jim Pike and Jim Thomson, 1968

Takes the crack in the corner below the abseil (fig) tree. Climb a short broken section past a tree to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, exiting slightly right to avoid a bulge near the top. Considerably harder if you face the wrong way.

Goofball Crack (15,18) * * * code: GBC

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Shaun Peard, 1978

Good climbing on both pitches, but watch out as some 18’s are harder than others.

(1) From the large blocks, climb a shallow openbook and take a break through the overhang to a ledge. Traverse left around a jammed block and climb another shallow recess to a large ledge. Avoid the rotten recess on the extreme left.

(2) Climb the finger crack to a jammed block. Climb past this and move left to finish up another crack.

Burnt Hands (15,14) * * code: BH

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden, 1977

The name refers to an unexpected fall on the first ascent. Start from some blocks to the left of Goofball Crack, directly below a large overhang.

(1) Climb up to the overhang, traverse left to a recess and climb this to a large ledge. The first eight metres is tricky to protect.

(2) Traverse left and up a ramp to gain a small corner on the right. Pull through to easier ground and exit.

Last Rite (17) * *

First ascent: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

Start from the ledge at the end of the first pitch of Burnt Hands. Climb the crack in the corner on the right.

Morning Tea Area (Pink Void to Nuke the Gay Whales)

Best approached by abseil to a ledge.

Pink Void (18) * *

First ascent: Adrian Hill and Steve Asbury, 1978

Start on a huge block. Climb up a steep section and then on easier rock to an old peg. Traverse left and then up another steep section to a second peg beneath a small roof at the base of a blank wall. Traverse left on a poor rail to a crack and climb the face above to a ledge. Move right and exit up a steep recess.

Moon Walk (16) * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

An easy line through an impressive overhang. Start about twenty five metres right of Pink Void and scramble up the obvious fault with a tree in it. Traverse to below a huge roof and follow the crack through this to the top.

Love of the Common People (21) * *

First ascent: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

Takes the impressive wall left of The Great Unwashed. Start at the tree at the bottom. Climb up blocks to a rail then diagonally left to a smooth face. Climb this on fragile holds to a rail and then into a cubbyhole to the right of a small cave. Move out right onto good rock, up for five metres and then back left to a rail and up to exit.

The Great Unwashed (17) * * code: TGU

First ascent: Colin Shuttleworth, 1970

Steep, but unsustained with some pleasant climbing. Needs occasional gardening, but worth the effort. Start further down on the left-hand side of the same ledge as Afternoon/Morning Tea.

Climb the broken recess to a cubbyhole under the small overhang. Pull through this on the right and then move back left to a crack. Climb this to the top.

Afternoon Tea (13) * *

First ascent: Jim MacInnes and Jim Thomson, c. 1962

A short climb with a pleasant finish. Climb the crack in the corner to the right of The Great Unwashed until it is possible to traverse out right onto the face, which is followed to the top. Alternatively, continue up the crack.

Morning Tea (17) * *

First ascent: Alan Whittaker and Dave Cheesmond, 1971

A short, but steep crack climb. Climb the crack in the face to the right of Afternoon Tea. Exit slightly right up a small face. This route was originally graded at 15, but has been changed to 17 by consensus.

Champagne Breakfast (17) * * *

First ascent: Steve Salmon, 1989

Climb the face and arete to the right of Morning Tea. Two pegs.

Nuke the Gay Whales (21) * *

First ascent: Mike Hislop and Cathy O’ Dowd, 1989

Start on the left of the ledge below Morning Tea. Climb up the flake line to a rail, move left and continue up to a large jug. Move back right to a rail and finish straight up.

Eskumbu Area (Galariel to Tired Geddon)

Approaced by abseil, or by continuing the scramble down the Owl ledge past Winnie the Pooh.

Galadriel (15,12) *

First ascent: Gary Zank, Nick Nevin, Roy Gooden and Adrian Hill, 1981

Takes the obvious recess (with tree) to the west of Morning Tea.

(1) Start directly below the recess and climb the face, moving diagonally right below a thorn tree to a big ledge.

(2) Climb the face on the left at the bottom of the recess. Move right into the corner and climb through the tree into a wide crack. Continue up this and exit right at the top.

No Lunch (15,15) * *

First ascent: Norman Hart and Tony Goodyear, 1970

Worth doing for the crux on the second pitch, which is spectacular.

(1) Climb up a small recess and traverse left across a smooth face. Climb up, heading right, to a stance. Poorly protected.

(2) Climb up the recess and traverse right across the steep wall. Hand-swing around the corner and exit up a small recess.

Slave to the Rhythm (26) * * * *

First ascent: Roger Nattrass, 1988

A long, thirty metre line up the face to the left of Eskumbu. Start below a peg, then up past a bolt to a rail. Continue up to a short, overhanging wall then straight up past a blade to the smooth face with two bolts. Finish up the open book.

Eskumbu (19,17) * * * code: EU

First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in 1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the second pitch.

(1) Climb a broken face into a small recess. Climb this past a peg and continue up over a section of bad, but easy rock to a stance at the base of an open book.

(2) Climb the open book to an obvious rail. Traverse left onto the steep wall using the foot rail until a crack is reached. Climb this for three metres and then handswing across a steep wall to a resting point. Climb easily to the top.

Fragmentation (19,18) * * * code: FN

First ascent: Mike Roberts, Brian Shuttleworth and Roy Gooden, 1978

A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.

(1) Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this to a good stance.

(2) Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.

Skullduggery (19) * *

First ascent: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain. Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©

Tantalus (14,17) * * *

First ascent: Tony Goodyear, c. early 1960’s

An excellent top pitch with a fine exit. The route takes the obvious big corner to the right of Fragmentation.

(1) Several lines exist, the best being to climb slightly left into a break and then tend right to the base of the big corner.

(2) Climb up the corner to the big roof and exit right on an off-balance ramp.

Obsession (19,20) * * code: ON

First ascent: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978

Poor rock in parts. Starts just left of a recess.

(1) Climb up left of a few stepped blocks to reach a thin crack. Move right into the top of the recess and pull up. Continue right to under an overhang which is bypassed on the right. Move back left to a large ledge.

(2) Climb the open book above to an overhang. Traverse right across a slab and up through a "vee" break to a ledge. Continue up the crack to the top.

Tired Geddon (20,21) * * * code: TG

First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1969

First free ascent: John Fantini and Rich Smithers, 1978

Originally an aid route, it was freed to provide a spectacular route through impressive roofs on both pitches. Starts in the corner under the huge roofs.

(1) Climb up the corner and traverse out to the lip. Pull up to a broad ledge. Climb diagonally right and then back left to avoid the second roof. Climb up a short recess to a stance.

(2) Climb the open book to the roof. Pull through the roof into a small recess and continue to the top.

Winnie-the-Pooh Wall (Space Truckin' to The Wizard of Froboz)

Reached by scrambling down from a shoulder approximately thirty metres east of Hot Head, to a blocky ledge, known as the Owl ledge and scramble.

A. Space Truckin' (17) * * *
B. Magrathea (19) * * *   
C. Eroticon Six (18) * * *
D. Winnie the Pooh (16) * * * *
E. The Leper Messiah (24) * * * *
F. Tight Arsed Egomaniacs (23) * * * *
G. The Wizard of Froboz (18) * *

Space Truckin’ (17) * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

Airy and exposed. Start on the Owl scramble ledge. Climb past a peg to a rail. Traverse left along this to just before the end of the face. Climb a shallow recess from a small ledge past a wedged block. Climb diagonally left and exit by moving around the corner to finish up the last two metres of Tired Geddon.

Magrathea (19) * * *

First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Grant Cockburn, 1988

The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of the Owl ledge.

Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess.

Eroticon Six (18) * * *

First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Gerald Camp, 1988

Start at the end of the Owl ledge, as for Magrathea. Climb down and left for two metres, and then up on thin holds to a rail passing to the left of a small roof (unprotected except for the peg on Winnie-the-Pooh). Climb directly up the face above on thin holds.

Winnie-the-Pooh (16) * * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

Excellent climbing on a steep wall, and a good test of nerve for the leader. Start on the Owl ledge as for Space Truckin’.

Climb up past the peg and follow a diagonal line of good incut finger holds to the base of a recess on the right (unprotected between the peg and recess, but a bomb-proof wire can be placed in the rail by moving slightly left after passing the peg). Climb the recess to the top.

The Leper Messiah (24) * * * *

First ascent: Roger Nattrass, 1988

Start two metres right of Winnie-the-Pooh.

Climb straight up on micro-thin edges past two bolts, and then up just right of a crack to a rail. Step right at the rail and then up the wall past a crescent-shaped pocket.

Tight Arsed Egomaniacs (23) * * * *

First ascent: Roger Nattrass, 1988

Start right of The Leper Messiah next to a small open book. Climb up past a rail to a second rail. Climb straight up past two bolts to the top.

The Wizard of Froboz (18) * *

First ascent: Tim Goodwin and Evan Wiercx, 1985

Follow the curved break above and to the right of Tight Arsed Egomaniacs.

Hot Head & Sizzle Wall (The Supercillian Connection to Warm Knees)

Reached by abseil, or by scrambling down the crack in a corner below the first sloping shoulder to the east of the central climbing area. This crack was originally a climb called Cold Feet (8). Traverse left along the obvious large foot rail on a grey west-facing face to a corner and scramble down around the corner to the blocky ledge below the wall.

Topo Key:

The Supercillian Connection (21) * *

First ascent: Steve Bradshaw and Andrew Ashford-Jack

Take the first break to the left of Foreign Intervention and Hot Head. Climb the recess to a steep face, and then past two pegs to finish.

Foreign Intervention (20) * * *

First ascent: C. Edelstein, C. Curson and S. Brown, 1985

Start at the end of the blocky ledge, two metres left of Hot Head. Climb directly up into the crack which is visible to the right of Hot Head, between Hot Head and Zzed Aversion. Contrived but worthwhile.

Hot Head (12) * * * * code: HH

First ascent: Vic Pearson and Jim Thomson, 1968

Enjoyable climbing on good, clean rock. Start at a large block on the left of the ledge. Climb up from the ledge to a peg in a blind crack. Step left across the crack and continue straight up to a rail below a recess. Climb the recess and mantleshelf onto a block. Exit up and to the left.

Zzed Aversion (25) * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp, 1989

Start as for Hot Head. Climb up to the rail, just to the left of Sizzle. Climb up to the bolt, and then up to a jug on thin holds. Continue to a peg and then move one metre left to exit up the slight recess.

Sizzle (20) * * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts, 1978

Originally an aid route opened by Sherman Ripley, Jim Thomson and G. Evans in the early 1960’s, but freed to produce a well protected fine face and crack climb with some great moves. Start on a block on the right of the ledge.

Climb up a short slab-like face to a small roof. Move right and then left to gain the crack which is followed until it ends. Move left for one move onto the wall and exit straight up.

Frazzle (22) * * *

First ascent: Andy de Klerk, 1988

Starts from the same block as Sizzle. Climb up to a peg, pull through the roof and continue up to a bolt. Finish slightly to the right on thin holds.

Dazzle (24) * * *

First ascent: Andy de Klerk, 1988

Start to the right of Frazzle. Climb the crack/groove onto a block. Climb directly up the wall above the bolt. A very small friend or TCU protects the exit.

Fit to Burst (15) * *

First ascent: Chris Leslie-Smith and Ian Manson, 1984

A contrived but pleasant climb to the left of the Hot Seat flakes. This is possibly a much older route called No Breakfast. Start at the base of a shallow recess (below Dazzle) two metres left of a prominent fig tree on the scramble down.

Climb the recess to a prominent block on the face to the right. Traverse around the block and move up and right to the Hot Seat blocks. Continue up the face keeping to the left of the blocks.

Hot Seat (10) * *

First ascent: Dawn Bremner and Sherman Ripley, c. mid 1960’s

Pleasant but very short. Beware - the middle flake is loose, and will take a downward, but not an outward pull. Climb the large flakes to the right of Sizzle.

Warm Knees (10) * *

First ascent: Gavin Peckham, Neil Peckham and Frank Boase, 1993

Short but pleasant. Climb up the middle of the narrow grey face between the Cold Feet scramble and the Hot Seat flakes.

The Flames Wall (Planet Claire to Sidewinder)

Reached via the Cold Feet scramble as for the Hot Head/Sizzle area, but continuing down the scramble to the base of the cliff on the right.

(Note: See topo above in the "Hot Head and Sizzle" section for "Flames Wall" routes.)

Planet Claire (22) * *

First ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, J. Roth and Grant Murray, 1988

Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.

Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.

Satellite (21) * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

Start six metres right of the Cold Feet scramble. Climb up a black streak to a rail. Move up and left to a small ledge. Climb up the shallow recess to the small roof and move left onto a steep face. Climb this to the top. Do not exit to the left.

Flaming Desperation (25/26) * * * *

First ascent: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

Start two metres to the right of Satellite. Boulder up the wall to the wide rail and then up to the next big rail. Pull up to the base of the groove right of Satellite (peg). Move right and then up the wall tending left, keeping just right of the groove. Exit at the block hanging over the lip. Very pumping.

An Instant in the Wind (24) * * *

First ascent: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1985

Start next to the pillar from which Wild Sky starts. Climb the easy wall to the left to a detached block (peg). Pull over the bulge and climb up to a small roof and up the groove past another peg.

The Flames of Sunset (25) * * * *

First ascent: Steve Bradshaw, 1984

Start on the extreme left of the Wild Sky ledge. Climb up diagonally left to the first small roof (the protruding block is just to the left). Traverse right, then up the wall via berserk moves to a jug. Move left beneath the second small roof to a huge jug and then up the wall to exit slightly right on white rock.

The Flames of Sunset Direct (25) * * *

First ascent: Andy de Klerk, 1988

Instead of wandering back and forth, climb straight up using long reaches.

Wild Sky (26) * * * *

First ascent: Steve Bradshaw, 1984

A superbly bouldery route. Start near the left of the ledge below a bolt.

Climb up through the bulge above and up to a small roof. Move slightly right to the peg and up to a rail. Up one move diagonally left into the centre of the wall and exit past a ledge. Unfortunately this route has subsequently been damaged by lightening and now sports a death run out after the crux.

Dark Side of the Moon (21) * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

Starts ten metres right of Satellite, on the ledge. Climb the obvious recess in the middle of the face. Break onto the face above to exit.

Daylight Again (27) * * *

First ascent: Andy de Klerk and Chris Jackson, 1984

Start as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, moving left on a contorted traverse below the roof. Climb up right and pull through the roof to a peg. Climb the wall above, past a manky bolt, on micro-thin holds to the top.

Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster (20) * * *

First ascent: Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

Start about three metres right of Dark Side of the Moon. Climb through bulges to the obvious rail. Move right around the corner, and then up the face to finish up the shallow recess above.

Sidewinder (17) * * *

First ascent: Pete Muir, Ian Macdonald and Shaun Peard, 1979

Starts just left of the last pitch of Pilgrim’s Progress. Climb diagonally left to exit up the shallow recess as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster.