Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
Black Diedre Area (The BPSO to Last Rite)
Black
Diedre takes the obvious dark, west-facing corner that is clearly
visible from the path along the top of the cliff. Climbs in this area
are best reached by abseil. The usual ab point is the large fig tree in
the corner above Virgin (about fifty metres west of Black Diedre). From
here it is possible to traverse along a narrow ledge to avoid the bush
at the bottom of the crag. . There are several other convenient ab
points at various points along the top of the crag.
The Big Pink Stiff One (25) * * * *
First ascent: A. Lamming, 1993
About thirty paces on the eastern side of Black Diedre is a single
bolt belay at the top of the crag. The climb is directly below and is
protected by three bolts, a number 1½ Friend and a no 5 Rock. The first
ascentionist bets that you don’t flash it!
Cadenza (18) * * code: CA
First ascent: Adrian Hill, 1978
Variation: Mike Roberts
Strenuous and not so well protected. Start two metres left of New
Hoek. Climb up a vague crack for two metres and then traverse left on
small holds to the edge of the face. Climb directly up to a small ledge
and then finish up the face above. As a variation, climb straight up a
shallow recess from the start and then traverse left to the original
line.
New Hoek (11) * * * code: NH
First ascent: Tony Ferrar, 1963
An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow
corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to
traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block,
tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face.
Gentle Aquarian (17) * * * * code: GA
First ascent: Mike Roberts, Mervyn Gans and Carless Freer, 1977
A classic. Sustained and steep in a great position. Start three
metres right of New Hoek, around the corner. Pull up around a bulge and
climb directly up a steep break to a small ledge. Climb a short face
past a peg and then move left onto the corner. Follow a crack to the
top.
Gemini Dream (17) * * * code: GD
First ascent: Roy Gooden and Steve Bradshaw, 1982
Start in the obvious corner two metres to the right of Gentle
Aquarian. Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left and up to
reach a small ledge. Climb up the face heading slightly left to reach a
peg. Move up to reach another ledge and then traverse right for two
metres, where the route touches on Black Diedre. Move back left around
the corner to a thin crack which is followed to the top.
Black Diedre (14) * * * * code: BD
First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970
A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark
streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to
start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the
cliff.
Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to
traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around
a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is
bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.
The Fire Still Remains (19) * * *
First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Gerald Camp, 1989
Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right
(peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then
pull through the roof and continue to the top.
Free Ride (17) * * * * code: FR
First ascent: Mike Roberts, Ian Wallace and Charl Brummer, 1979
This route follows the old aid route Middle Age opened by Colin and
Dave Shuttleworth in the early 70’s. Start on a small ledge about six
metres up and to the right of the start to Black Diedre. It is best to
belay from the lower ledge.
Climb diagonally right to the middle of the wall and then up to an obvious rail. Move up and right to exit up a shallow groove.
A Cold Fact (18) * * *
First ascent: Gerald Camp, 1988
Start as for Stormbringer. Climb up the face to a peg. Climb
directly up the face above to a rail, passing a blade peg to the right.
Finish up the same groove as Free Ride. Led out and sustained.
Stormbringer (22) * * code: SBR
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1980
Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb
up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top.
Fingertrip Trip (17,23) * * * code: FTP
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979
Start in the faint recess ten metres to the left of Old Man’s Climb.
(1) Climb diagonally left to break through a roof and continue on thin holds to the corner. Climb up the wall to the big ledge.
(2) Climb the vague recess on the right hand side of the ledge. Technically overgraded due to lack of protection on this pitch.
Old Man’s Climb (16,16) * * * code: OMC
First ascent: Sherman Ripley, Jim Thomson and Gordon Bulter, 1968
Variation: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979
One of Monteseel’s classic climbs. Start at the base of an undercut open book.
(1) Pull up into the open book recess and follow this for five
metres and then traverse left past two pegs under an overhang to a
corner. Move up the corner for three metres and traverse left onto the
ledge.
(2) Climb the obvious recess from the ledge, or alternatively climb
the face diagonally to the right (15), which offers excellent, but
unprotected climbing.
Old Man’s Climb Direct (17) * * * *
First ascent: Brian Shuttleworth and Carless Freer, 1978
Includes most of the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb which is continued with some exciting climbing in a great position.
Climb the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb, but instead of traversing
left to the ledge, traverse right around the corner and continue
directly up to the top.
Youngster’s Line (20) * * * code: YL
First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970
First free ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1978
Originally opened with two points of aid. A direct and steep line.
Start five metres to the right of Old Man’s Climb. Pull through a small
overhang and climb up to a small ledge at the base of a small roof.
Pull through the roof into a steep recess and up to a tree about five
metres higher. Continue up the break for three metres and then traverse
right past two pegs to a shallow scoop. Exit diagonally to the left.
Lurkules (19) *
First ascent: Stewart Middlemiss and Mike Hislop, 1989
Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few
metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike.
Continue up and left, finishing up the groove.
Generation Gap ( 18) * code: GG
First ascent: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978
Start in the big corner right of Youngster’s Line. Climb the large
crack/chimney to an obvious traverse onto the left hand wall. At the
end of the traverse, climb up and break through the roof to finish. The
second half is better than the first.
Microphobia (19) * * * code:MA
First ascent: Alan Manson, Paul Firman and Pete Muir, 1979
A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the
small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the
recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to
a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly
right and pull onto the face above to exit.
Whippersnapper (19) * * * code: WH
First ascent: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1976
A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower
section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of
Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang.
Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and
follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the
left.
Highball Shooter (22) * * * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979
Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut
recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point
in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb
the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of
Microphobia.
Slut (22) * *
First ascent: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1983
Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block
on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up
between rails and exit just right of the bush.
Sister Morphine (23) * * *
First ascent: Tim Hoole, 1989
Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight
through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook.
Virgin (13) * * code: VGN
First ascent: Sherman Ripley, Jim Pike and Jim Thomson, 1968
Takes the crack in the corner below the abseil (fig) tree. Climb a
short broken section past a tree to the base of the crack. Climb the
crack, exiting slightly right to avoid a bulge near the top.
Considerably harder if you face the wrong way.
Goofball Crack (15,18) * * * code: GBC
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Shaun Peard, 1978
Good climbing on both pitches, but watch out as some 18’s are harder than others.
(1) From the large blocks, climb a shallow openbook and take a break
through the overhang to a ledge. Traverse left around a jammed block
and climb another shallow recess to a large ledge. Avoid the rotten
recess on the extreme left.
(2) Climb the finger crack to a jammed block. Climb past this and move left to finish up another crack.
Burnt Hands (15,14) * * code: BH
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden, 1977
The name refers to an unexpected fall on the first ascent. Start
from some blocks to the left of Goofball Crack, directly below a large
overhang.
(1) Climb up to the overhang, traverse left to a recess and climb
this to a large ledge. The first eight metres is tricky to protect.
(2) Traverse left and up a ramp to gain a small corner on the right. Pull through to easier ground and exit.
Last Rite (17) * *
First ascent: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978
Start from the ledge at the end of the first pitch of Burnt Hands. Climb the crack in the corner on the right.
Morning Tea Area (Pink Void to Nuke the Gay Whales)
Best approached by abseil to a ledge.
Pink Void (18) * *
First ascent: Adrian Hill and Steve Asbury, 1978
Start on a huge block. Climb up a steep section and then on easier
rock to an old peg. Traverse left and then up another steep section to
a second peg beneath a small roof at the base of a blank wall. Traverse
left on a poor rail to a crack and climb the face above to a ledge.
Move right and exit up a steep recess.
Moon Walk (16) * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980
An easy line through an impressive overhang. Start about twenty five
metres right of Pink Void and scramble up the obvious fault with a tree
in it. Traverse to below a huge roof and follow the crack through this
to the top.
Love of the Common People (21) * *
First ascent: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984
Takes the impressive wall left of The Great Unwashed. Start at the
tree at the bottom. Climb up blocks to a rail then diagonally left to a
smooth face. Climb this on fragile holds to a rail and then into a
cubbyhole to the right of a small cave. Move out right onto good rock,
up for five metres and then back left to a rail and up to exit.
The Great Unwashed (17) * * code: TGU
First ascent: Colin Shuttleworth, 1970
Steep, but unsustained with some pleasant climbing. Needs occasional
gardening, but worth the effort. Start further down on the left-hand
side of the same ledge as Afternoon/Morning Tea.
Climb the broken recess to a cubbyhole under the small overhang.
Pull through this on the right and then move back left to a crack.
Climb this to the top.
Afternoon Tea (13) * *
First ascent: Jim MacInnes and Jim Thomson, c. 1962
A short climb with a pleasant finish. Climb the crack in the corner
to the right of The Great Unwashed until it is possible to traverse out
right onto the face, which is followed to the top. Alternatively,
continue up the crack.
Morning Tea (17) * *
First ascent: Alan Whittaker and Dave Cheesmond, 1971
A short, but steep crack climb. Climb the crack in the face to the
right of Afternoon Tea. Exit slightly right up a small face. This route
was originally graded at 15, but has been changed to 17 by consensus.
Champagne Breakfast (17) * * *
First ascent: Steve Salmon, 1989
Climb the face and arete to the right of Morning Tea. Two pegs.
Nuke the Gay Whales (21) * *
First ascent: Mike Hislop and Cathy O’ Dowd, 1989
Start on the left of the ledge below Morning Tea. Climb up the flake
line to a rail, move left and continue up to a large jug. Move back
right to a rail and finish straight up.
Eskumbu Area (Galariel to Tired Geddon)
Approaced by abseil, or by continuing the scramble down the Owl ledge past Winnie the Pooh.
Galadriel (15,12) *
First ascent: Gary Zank, Nick Nevin, Roy Gooden and Adrian Hill, 1981
Takes the obvious recess (with tree) to the west of Morning Tea.
(1) Start directly below the recess and climb the face, moving diagonally right below a thorn tree to a big ledge.
(2) Climb the face on the left at the bottom of the recess. Move
right into the corner and climb through the tree into a wide crack.
Continue up this and exit right at the top.
No Lunch (15,15) * *
First ascent: Norman Hart and Tony Goodyear, 1970
Worth doing for the crux on the second pitch, which is spectacular.
(1) Climb up a small recess and traverse left across a smooth face. Climb up, heading right, to a stance. Poorly protected.
(2) Climb up the recess and traverse right across the steep wall. Hand-swing around the corner and exit up a small recess.
Slave to the Rhythm (26) * * * *
First ascent: Roger Nattrass, 1988
A long, thirty metre line up the face to the left of Eskumbu. Start
below a peg, then up past a bolt to a rail. Continue up to a short,
overhanging wall then straight up past a blade to the smooth face with
two bolts. Finish up the open book.
Eskumbu (19,17) * * * code: EU
First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970
First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and
subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in
1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the
second pitch.
(1) Climb a broken face into a small recess. Climb this past a peg
and continue up over a section of bad, but easy rock to a stance at the
base of an open book.
(2) Climb the open book to an obvious rail. Traverse left onto the
steep wall using the foot rail until a crack is reached. Climb this for
three metres and then handswing across a steep wall to a resting point.
Climb easily to the top.
Fragmentation (19,18) * * * code: FN
First ascent: Mike Roberts, Brian Shuttleworth and Roy Gooden, 1978
A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.
(1) Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short
recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this
to a good stance.
(2) Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse
across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.
Skullduggery (19) * *
First ascent: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978
Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A
layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain.
Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
Tantalus (14,17) * * *
First ascent: Tony Goodyear, c. early 1960’s
An excellent top pitch with a fine exit. The route takes the obvious big corner to the right of Fragmentation.
(1) Several lines exist, the best being to climb slightly left into a break and then tend right to the base of the big corner.
(2) Climb up the corner to the big roof and exit right on an off-balance ramp.
Obsession (19,20) * * code: ON
First ascent: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978
Poor rock in parts. Starts just left of a recess.
(1) Climb up left of a few stepped blocks to reach a thin crack.
Move right into the top of the recess and pull up. Continue right to
under an overhang which is bypassed on the right. Move back left to a
large ledge.
(2) Climb the open book above to an overhang. Traverse right across
a slab and up through a "vee" break to a ledge. Continue up the crack
to the top.
Tired Geddon (20,21) * * * code: TG
First ascent: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1969
First free ascent: John Fantini and Rich Smithers, 1978
Originally an aid route, it was freed to provide a spectacular route
through impressive roofs on both pitches. Starts in the corner under
the huge roofs.
(1) Climb up the corner and traverse out to the lip. Pull up to a
broad ledge. Climb diagonally right and then back left to avoid the
second roof. Climb up a short recess to a stance.
(2) Climb the open book to the roof. Pull through the roof into a small recess and continue to the top.
Winnie-the-Pooh Wall (Space Truckin' to The Wizard of Froboz)
Reached by scrambling down from a shoulder approximately thirty
metres east of Hot Head, to a blocky ledge, known as the Owl ledge and
scramble.
Topo Key:
A. Space Truckin' (17) * * *
B. Magrathea (19) * * *
C. Eroticon Six (18) * * *
D. Winnie the Pooh (16) * * * *
E. The Leper Messiah (24) * * * *
F. Tight Arsed Egomaniacs (23) * * * *
G. The Wizard of Froboz (18) * *
Space Truckin’ (17) * * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979
Airy and exposed. Start on the Owl scramble ledge. Climb past a peg
to a rail. Traverse left along this to just before the end of the face.
Climb a shallow recess from a small ledge past a wedged block. Climb
diagonally left and exit by moving around the corner to finish up the
last two metres of Tired Geddon.
Magrathea (19) * * *
First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Grant Cockburn, 1988
The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick
and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of
the Owl ledge.
Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the
cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move
diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious
recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess.
Eroticon Six (18) * * *
First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Gerald Camp, 1988
Start at the end of the Owl ledge, as for Magrathea. Climb down and
left for two metres, and then up on thin holds to a rail passing to the
left of a small roof (unprotected except for the peg on
Winnie-the-Pooh). Climb directly up the face above on thin holds.
Winnie-the-Pooh (16) * * * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979
Excellent climbing on a steep wall, and a good test of nerve for the leader. Start on the Owl ledge as for Space Truckin’.
Climb up past the peg and follow a diagonal line of good incut
finger holds to the base of a recess on the right (unprotected between
the peg and recess, but a bomb-proof wire can be placed in the rail by
moving slightly left after passing the peg). Climb the recess to the
top.
The Leper Messiah (24) * * * *
First ascent: Roger Nattrass, 1988
Start two metres right of Winnie-the-Pooh.
Climb straight up on micro-thin edges past two bolts, and then up
just right of a crack to a rail. Step right at the rail and then up the
wall past a crescent-shaped pocket.
Tight Arsed Egomaniacs (23) * * * *
First ascent: Roger Nattrass, 1988
Start right of The Leper Messiah next to a small open book. Climb up
past a rail to a second rail. Climb straight up past two bolts to the
top.
The Wizard of Froboz (18) * *
First ascent: Tim Goodwin and Evan Wiercx, 1985
Follow the curved break above and to the right of Tight Arsed Egomaniacs.
Hot Head & Sizzle Wall (The Supercillian Connection to Warm Knees)
Reached by abseil, or by scrambling down the crack in a corner below
the first sloping shoulder to the east of the central climbing area.
This crack was originally a climb called Cold Feet (8). Traverse left
along the obvious large foot rail on a grey west-facing face to a
corner and scramble down around the corner to the blocky ledge below
the wall.
Topo Key:
A. Hot Head (12) * * *
B. Zzed Aversion (25) * * *
C. Sizzle (19) * * * *
D. Frazzle (22) * * *
E. Dazzle (24) * * *
F. Hot Seat (10) * *
G. Cold Feet Scramble (9) *
H. Planet Claire (22) * *
I . Satellite (22) * *
J. Flaming Desperation (25/26) * * * *
K. An Instant in the Wind (24) * * *
L. The Flames of Sunset (25) * * * *
M. Flames of Sunset Direct (25) * * *
N. Wild Sky (26) * * * *
O. Dark Side of the Moon (21) * *
P. Daylight Again (27) * * *
Q. Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster (20) * * *
R. Pilgrim's Progress (14) * *
The Supercillian Connection (21) * *
First ascent: Steve Bradshaw and Andrew Ashford-Jack
Take the first break to the left of Foreign Intervention and Hot
Head. Climb the recess to a steep face, and then past two pegs to
finish.
Foreign Intervention (20) * * *
First ascent: C. Edelstein, C. Curson and S. Brown, 1985
Start at the end of the blocky ledge, two metres left of Hot Head.
Climb directly up into the crack which is visible to the right of Hot
Head, between Hot Head and Zzed Aversion. Contrived but worthwhile.
Hot Head (12) * * * * code: HH
First ascent: Vic Pearson and Jim Thomson, 1968
Enjoyable climbing on good, clean rock. Start at a large block on
the left of the ledge. Climb up from the ledge to a peg in a blind
crack. Step left across the crack and continue straight up to a rail
below a recess. Climb the recess and mantleshelf onto a block. Exit up
and to the left.
Zzed Aversion (25) * * *
First ascent: Gerald Camp, 1989
Start as for Hot Head. Climb up to the rail, just to the left of
Sizzle. Climb up to the bolt, and then up to a jug on thin holds.
Continue to a peg and then move one metre left to exit up the slight
recess.
Sizzle (20) * * * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts, 1978
Originally an aid route opened by Sherman Ripley, Jim Thomson and G.
Evans in the early 1960’s, but freed to produce a well protected fine
face and crack climb with some great moves. Start on a block on the
right of the ledge.
Climb up a short slab-like face to a small roof. Move right and then
left to gain the crack which is followed until it ends. Move left for
one move onto the wall and exit straight up.
Frazzle (22) * * *
First ascent: Andy de Klerk, 1988
Starts from the same block as Sizzle. Climb up to a peg, pull
through the roof and continue up to a bolt. Finish slightly to the
right on thin holds.
Dazzle (24) * * *
First ascent: Andy de Klerk, 1988
Start to the right of Frazzle. Climb the crack/groove onto a block.
Climb directly up the wall above the bolt. A very small friend or TCU
protects the exit.
Fit to Burst (15) * *
First ascent: Chris Leslie-Smith and Ian Manson, 1984
A contrived but pleasant climb to the left of the Hot Seat flakes.
This is possibly a much older route called No Breakfast. Start at the
base of a shallow recess (below Dazzle) two metres left of a prominent
fig tree on the scramble down.
Climb the recess to a prominent block on the face to the right.
Traverse around the block and move up and right to the Hot Seat blocks.
Continue up the face keeping to the left of the blocks.
Hot Seat (10) * *
First ascent: Dawn Bremner and Sherman Ripley, c. mid 1960’s
Pleasant but very short. Beware - the middle flake is loose, and
will take a downward, but not an outward pull. Climb the large flakes
to the right of Sizzle.
Warm Knees (10) * *
First ascent: Gavin Peckham, Neil Peckham and Frank Boase, 1993
Short but pleasant. Climb up the middle of the narrow grey face between the Cold Feet scramble and the Hot Seat flakes.
The Flames Wall (Planet Claire to Sidewinder)
Reached via the Cold Feet scramble as for the Hot Head/Sizzle area,
but continuing down the scramble to the base of the cliff on the right.
(Note: See topo above in the "Hot Head and Sizzle" section for "Flames Wall" routes.)
Planet Claire (22) * *
First ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, J. Roth and Grant Murray, 1988
Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.
Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.
Satellite (21) * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980
Start six metres right of the Cold Feet scramble. Climb up a black
streak to a rail. Move up and left to a small ledge. Climb up the
shallow recess to the small roof and move left onto a steep face. Climb
this to the top. Do not exit to the left.
Flaming Desperation (25/26) * * * *
First ascent: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984
Start two metres to the right of Satellite. Boulder up the wall to
the wide rail and then up to the next big rail. Pull up to the base of
the groove right of Satellite (peg). Move right and then up the wall
tending left, keeping just right of the groove. Exit at the block
hanging over the lip. Very pumping.
An Instant in the Wind (24) * * *
First ascent: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1985
Start next to the pillar from which Wild Sky starts. Climb the easy
wall to the left to a detached block (peg). Pull over the bulge and
climb up to a small roof and up the groove past another peg.
The Flames of Sunset (25) * * * *
First ascent: Steve Bradshaw, 1984
Start on the extreme left of the Wild Sky ledge. Climb up diagonally
left to the first small roof (the protruding block is just to the
left). Traverse right, then up the wall via berserk moves to a jug.
Move left beneath the second small roof to a huge jug and then up the
wall to exit slightly right on white rock.
The Flames of Sunset Direct (25) * * *
First ascent: Andy de Klerk, 1988
Instead of wandering back and forth, climb straight up using long reaches.
Wild Sky (26) * * * *
First ascent: Steve Bradshaw, 1984
A superbly bouldery route. Start near the left of the ledge below a bolt.
Climb up through the bulge above and up to a small roof. Move
slightly right to the peg and up to a rail. Up one move diagonally left
into the centre of the wall and exit past a ledge. Unfortunately this
route has subsequently been damaged by lightening and now sports a
death run out after the crux.
Dark Side of the Moon (21) * *
First ascent: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980
Starts ten metres right of Satellite, on the ledge. Climb the
obvious recess in the middle of the face. Break onto the face above to
exit.
Daylight Again (27) * * *
First ascent: Andy de Klerk and Chris Jackson, 1984
Start as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, moving left on a contorted
traverse below the roof. Climb up right and pull through the roof to a
peg. Climb the wall above, past a manky bolt, on micro-thin holds to
the top.
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster (20) * * *
First ascent: Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1984
Start about three metres right of Dark Side of the Moon. Climb
through bulges to the obvious rail. Move right around the corner, and
then up the face to finish up the shallow recess above.
Sidewinder (17) * * *
First ascent: Pete Muir, Ian Macdonald and Shaun Peard, 1979
Starts just left of the last pitch of Pilgrim’s Progress. Climb
diagonally left to exit up the shallow recess as for Pan Galactic
Gargle Blaster.