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Kloof - Rumdoodle Route Descriptions

Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©



Mainland : Ravine Area

The following climbs are listed from left to right (anti-clockwise) around the Mainland. The first route lies to the left of the steep scramble. The next five routes from Fucsorithanx to Steel Junction Direct, lie between a huge block and the Mainland face. The remaining routes are on the Mainland side of the Ravine itself.

 

1. Little Genie (25) [4B, C] * *

First Ascent: Damion McHendry (1994)

Climb the short, white face just beyond the start of the scramble and some 30 m to the left of Fucsorithanx.

2. Fucsorithanx (19) [5B, C] * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1993)

Start from the top of the huge block and climb up the line of bolts to a roof that presents quite an exposed and powerful crux considering the grade. Retro-bolted.

3. Last Straw (28) [5B, C] * * * *

First ascent: Damion McHendry (1998)

Start a couple of metres to the right of Fucsorithanx and pre-clip the first bolt by bridging up between the block and the wall. Thin, powerful moves lead up, tending slightly left to the chains at the top of Fucsorithanx.

4. Graffiti Limbo (27) [5B, C] * * * *

First ascent: Roger Nattrass (1989)

Start a couple of metres left of Steel Junction - i.e. just left of the corner/arete on the right. Bridge up between the block and the face to pre-clip the first bolt then restart using the face only. A difficult line that offers technical face climbing (lower crux) which is capped by steep, sustained cranking.

5. Steel Junction (24) [6B, C] * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1989)

Start at the arete where the wall turns into the Ravine. Climb up just left of the arete then move up the left tending break in the overhanging headwall. Good, sustained climbing. 

6. Steel Junction Direct (21) [7B, C] * * *

First ascent: Clive Curson (1994)

Starts as for Steel Junction, but continues straight up, following the U-bolts just left of the arete.

7. Sex, Politics and Pets (21) [5B, C] * * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1993)

The route begins just to the right of the Steel Junction arete. Start by climbing the arete on good rock then continue on directly up the face. This is an excellent route. Retro-bolted.

8. Frothing Frenzy (20) [1B] * *

First ascent: Adrian Jardin, Steve Salmon and Steve Bradshaw (19 July 1980)

Start at the base of Sex, Politics and Pets. Climb up to clip the first bolt then move diagonally right on big holds. Continue up to finish between Sex, Politics and Pets and Running Down a Dream.

9. Running Down a Dream (24) [4B, C] * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1989)

Climb straight up the line of bolts, taking care not to miss any of the less than obvious holds. This route is a good introduction to the angle of the wall and its powerful edge pulling.

10. Living by the Moon (25) [2B, P, C] * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1989)

Starts near the middle of the Ravine face directly below two bolts and a peg. Technical, steep climbing takes you straight up the wall until you reach a peg. From here, move left to the bolts at the top of Running Down a Dream.

11. The Renaissance (26) [6B, C] * * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1993)

Climb straight up the wall on small but positive edges. This line has a wonderful collection of buckets, sidepulls, tweaky micro edges and slopers. This is one of the best routes in the Ravine.

12. Beyond the Pale (24) [6B, C] * * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp and Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)

This is a very steep route that pulls through the bulge towards the right-hand side of the Ravine wall. Start below the bulge which is about 4 m to the left of the obvious, huge Jam Up crack. Climb up past the blank section via a layback to a huge jug. Move slightly left then pull through the bulge. Continue straight up to a small roof near the grassy ledge. Move left past a finger pocket and then climb straight up to the top. Easier than it looks and well protected with natural gear. Retro-bolted.

13. Rage (27) [6B, C] * * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1994)

Start up Beyond the Pale and break right at the third bolt, then continue up to the top.

14. Jam Up (15) * *

First ascent: Brian Shuttleworth and Harry Borcain (1969)

The route takes the large, obvious crack towards the right-hand side of the ravine wall. Climb the crack and then pull up on good holds to a ledge. Climb the corner to the top.

15. Jam Up Variation (19) [P] * *

First ascent: D Woods (1991)

Climb Jam Up to the ledge. Move left onto the face on thin holds then continue up past a peg to the top. Pre-place a long sling on the peg if you don't wish to risk hitting the other side of the ravine.

16. Altamira (23) [P, B] * * *

First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton (1989)

Takes the steep wall right of Jam Up. Step off the block below the massive tree trunk to get onto the wall. Move about 2 m right on good holds and then climb straight up the wall past a peg to the ledge. This top section is very bold. From the ledge climb straight up the wall on thin holds, past a bolt to the top

17. Massacre of the Innocents (22) * * * *

First ascent: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Brett Clarke (1989)

Climb directly up the wall just right of Altamira, starting below the cubbyhole and finishing up the diagonal crack above the ledge. Long and strenuous.

18. Botty Cough (22) [6B,C] * * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp - bolted by Pete Janschek (May 1998)

Follow the line of bolts up the corner, just to the right of the previous route.

 

Mainland : Kloof Gorge Side

After emerging from the Ravine and passing the Botty Burps bolts, continue to the right along the base of the wall until you come to a chossy looking chimney. Further along is a second, clean textbook chimney. Between these two chimneys is an excellent wall, generally known as the Exodus wall, after the route up the centre of the face.

1. Edge Og (16) * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts, Shaun Peard and Pete Muir (1978)

Start 3 m from the left-hand edge of the Exodus wall. Climb up on good holds for 6 m, then traverse left to the corner and continue up the corner to the top. Delicate climbing with poor gear.

2. Malachi (19) [6B, C] * * *

First ascent: Steve Bradshaw (1980s)

Climb up the line of bolts between Exodus and Edge Og. The original line bypasses a bulge low down, by moving left, then up, then back right. This avoids a harder direct line over the bulge. Retro-bolted.

3. Exodus (20) [2P] * * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ladson Hayes (1977)

In the middle of the wall is a thin right-tending crack. Follow this past two pegs and break straight through the small roof above. Please note: The route marked as Exodus in the map on page 16 of "A Climber's Guide to Natal Rock" is not Exodus, but it is actually Tremble. Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©

4. Trendsetter (17) * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace (1982)

Start at the right hand side of the Exodus wall, just left of The Chimney and Visions in Blue. Climb up to a small stance about 6 m up the right-hand corner of the wall. From here climb diagonally left to a small ledge, then go diagonally right to a small but obvious recess. Climb up the wall above heading slightly left to finish up a blocky crack.

5. Visions in Blue (21) * *

First ascent: Gerald Camp (1989)

The left hand wall of The Chimney projects further than its right hand wall. This narrow, projecting wall has a large tree root running across the face about half way up. Start near the left-hand arete of this wall (i.e. the right hand arete of the Exodus wall) and climb straight up, moving towards the middle of the wall just before the root. The root is unavoidable and provides the only runner at this point. Finish straight up.

6. The Chimney (12) * * *

First ascent: Unknown

Climb the obvious chimney to the right of the Exodus face. Keep as close to the outside edge as possible. This route is well protected - a textbook "foot and back" chimney.

7. Tremble (14) * * * *

First ascent: Unknown

Start from a ledge with some trees and bushes, just to the right of The Chimney. Climb up the middle of the face on small holds to a blank section about 3 m from the top. Either climb straight up through this "blank" section, or alternatively, follow the original line by traversing left under a small roof to the corner of the chimney which is followed straight up to the top. This is an excellent route for its grade. Please note: The route marked as Exodus in the map on page 16 of "A Climber's Guide to Natal Rock" is not Exodus, but it is actually Tremble. Tremble was retro-bolted, but these bolts have subsequently been chopped.

8. Chicken Run (12) * *

First ascent: Unknown

About 20 m left of Saga (see below) is a deep, chossy crack. Start 3 m left of this. Climb up the right-hand side of the face for about 8 m . Traverse right around the corner into an openbook and climb this to the top.

9. Saga (A2) * *

First Ascent: Brian Shuttleworth (1970)

Further to the right is a shallow cave below an unmistakable series of huge roofs. Start slightly left of the trees and climb free until the rock steepens. Follow the thin peg-crack through the roofs to exit near the top. Good aid climbing on rock which is better than it looks.

10. Big Face (12) * *

First ascent: Unknown

After Saga, the crag curves off uphill and peters out. Just after the crag starts to curve, there is a grey face near the top of the crag. Start about 5 m right of the grey face, directly below a small tree with many roots located about half way up the wall. Climb up to the tree and then slightly left and on up the grey face.

11. Big Tree (10) * *

First ascent: Unknown

Start to the left of the big tree at the top of the gully and about 5 m left of where the crag peters out. Climb up a small recess then continue up the face, by-passing a small roof. Protection is sparse but adequate.

 

Island : Ravine Face

These climbs are listed from right to left (clockwise) as you face the Island and start from the right hand side of the Ravine.

1. Blockout (11) * *

First ascent: Gavin Peckham and Neil Peckham (1994)

Start in the narrow gap between the huge block and the wall of the Ravine, about 2 m to the right of the Big D crack. Climb easily up the face for about 6 m to an overlap which is passed on the right. Move up diagonally left on good holds then climb to the top on thin holds tending right. Avoid using the block that is at your back for the first half of the climb.

2. Big D (8) *

First ascent: Unknown.

Towards the right-hand side of the wall are two very large cracks. Big D takes the right-hand crack.

3. Impossible Slab (12) [4B, C] * * *

First ascent: Geoff Ingham, Bern Henriksen and Brian Shuttleworth (1983)

Climb up the centre of the slab between the two large cracks keeping towards the left at the top. This line has good natural gear. Retro-bolted.

4. Gateway (9) * *

First ascent: Unknown.

Climb the left-hand crack.

5. Grasshopper Variation 1 (13) * * *

First ascent: Unknown.

Start a couple of metres left of the Gateway crack. Climb straight up to the top. The first half of this variation coincides with the first half of the original line.

6. Grasshopper (Original Line) (13) * * *

First ascent: Unknown.

Start a couple of metres left of the Gateway crack. Climb straight up the face for 5 m. Traverse 2 m left along the obvious line and then climb straight up to the top.

7. Grasshopper Variation 2 (13) [5B, C] * * *

First ascent: Unknown.

Start about 5 m right of the Gateway crack and follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the top. The top half of this variation coincides with the top half of the original route. Retro-bolted.

8. Pigs in Space (17) [5B, C] * * * +

First ascent: Brian Shuttleworth, Rob Guest and Geoff Ingham (1983)

Start about 5 m right of the left-hand end of the wall. Climb straight up the wall to the top. Natural protection is sparse. Retro-bolted.

9. Honkies Can't Climb (15) [7B, C] * * *

First ascent: J Taljard (1994) The bolts are courtesy of Clive Curson.

Start at the corner on the left-hand side of the wall, a few metres left of Pigs in Space. Climb straight up the line of U-bolts to the top.

 

Island : Kloof Gorge Side

These climbs are listed from right to left as you face the Island from the Kloof Gorge side - i.e this list of routes simply continues from the one above.

1. Welcome to the Machine (25) [5B, C] * * * *

First ascent: K Smith (1989)

Climbs the bulging orange wall just past the ravine. This is a steep and pumping line.

2. The Prayer (17) * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Brian Shuttleworth (30 April 1978)

About 10 m left of the Ravine is an obvious crack breaking through the roofs. Climb the crack on good hold to above the roof. From here traverse left onto a steep slab. Continue up the slab moving left to a ledge and then up to the top.

3. Unnamed (14) * *

First ascent: Geoff Ingham and Charl Brummer (1984)

Left of The Prayer is a gully with an arete on its right-hand side. Start just to the right of the arete below a prominent roof. Move up to the roof and turn it on its left. Climb up to a good ledge and then up a thin crack with a tree in it. Move left around the arete and up to the top.

4. Acrophobia (17) * * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ladson Hayes (1977)

About 15 m left of The Prayer is a deep gully. Start just left of the gully, under a small roof about 2 m up. Side-step this to the left and climb up to under a larger roof. Reach a ledge above the roof, traverse left and pull up to a ledge at the bottom of a shallow, vertical recess. Continue strenuously up the recess to the slab (the slab is not visible from below). Move diagonally left to exit up a small recess in the middle of the slab.

5. Brain Damage (17) * *

First ascent: Mike Roberts and Ladson Hayes (1977)

Start 6 m left of Acrophobia. Pull through a V-shaped break in the first roof. Side-step to the next roof, climb into a small recess on the right and then back left to a ledge. Traverse right to the foot of a short, thin crack. Climb up this to a slab. Traverse left across the slab to the end and then up to the top.

6. Just Like the First Time (23) [2B] * * * *

First ascent: S Jones (1993)

Climbs the orange face about 50 m past the Ravine. This is a fine route in an unlikely position. It is protected by two bolts but requires some natural gear.

7. Crackin' Up (12) * *

First ascent: Pete Muir and Shaun Peard (1978)

The climb starts at the foot of the obvious crack running the full height of the crag. At 6 m step left onto a ledge and climb the face to another ledge. Move back into the crack and chimney up for 3 m. Move left into another crack which is climbed to the top.

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