Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2004 ©
IMPORTANT : This crag is usually closed from 16 August to 31 December to protect a pair of nesting Wahlberg's eagles from disturbances. The exact dates of closure vary from year to year. Please check for details in the climbing register when signing in.
Go to the Route Descriptions page.
This crag is one of the safest in the province due to the fact that it can only be accessed through private property.
If you by-passed the "How to Get There" section on the main Kloof Gorge page then Go Back there and find out how to get to the Gorge and to the Ranger's office. After signing in continue along Bridle Road - an extension of Kloof Falls Road - which winds up a steep hill with some view sites on the right. Park outside the Physiotherapists at 44 Bridle road - this is about 1,2 km from the Ranger's Office. During the week please find an alternative parking so as not to obstruct the clients' view of the road when they exit the property. A gate at the downhill end of the property provides access if the Automatic gate is not open (PLEASE DO NOT jump over the fence at the uphill end of the property). Staying on the side of the house closest to the road, walk to the top end of the property where there is a gate in the electric fence. Go through the gate and follow the path to a second gate. The path beyond the second gate leads steeply downhill to the top of the "This and That" wall. There is no need to contact the landowner, just be quiet and respect their privacy.
This is particularly important in the case of the Canyon, which is accessed through the goodwill of a private landowner making access issues highly important.
The Canyon consists of two separate (and very different) walls. The "This and That" wall is situated near the tip of the spur along which the crags are approached. The base of the crag is reached by abseiling down one of the routes (sometimes rather difficult) or by an easy scramble on the left as you reach the top of the crag. The routes here are steep, powerful and of superb quality. The crag is situated high above the valley floor making for some awesomely exposed climbing.
The "Eroica" wall is reached by walking back toward the head of the deep canyon that gave the area its name. This striking and impressive face is difficult to miss. The base of the crag can be reached by abseiling down a steep scramble in the corner next to La’ Boheme (27) or down one of the routes. It is also possible to walk further up and scramble down into the canyon to approach the crag from the uphill side (take along a machete, and Dave Drummond, if you intend doing this in summer).
The climbing at the Canyon definitely tends toward the hard end of the scale with plenty of technically subtle and challenging routes for the aspirant rock stars to test their mettle. The grades range from 23-30 with only four routes below the 26 level. This is a fantastic area for anyone capable of the grades and absolutely essential for visiting climbers to sample. The contrast in character between the routes at the "Eroica" and "This and That" walls adds breadth to the climbing experience.
On the "must do" list are classic routes (among many others) like the surprising Magnus Powermouse (23), the mega endurance fest Phantom of the Opera (28), the cunning and exposed Betamaster (27), the superb Eroica (26) and the mind-blowing Mantra (29).
The rock is Natal Series Sandstone of excellent quality and is typical of many climbing venues in Natal. The "This and That" wall gets early morning and late afternoon shade while the "Eroica" wall is in shade from late morning onwards.