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Kloof - "The Boneyard" Route Descriptions

Copyright: MCSA-KZN 2004 ©

How To Get There

If you by-passed the "How to Get There" section on the main Kloof Gorge page then Go Back there and find out how to get to the Gorge and to the Ranger's office. After signing in continue along Bridle Road which winds up a steep hill with some view sites on the right. Turn right into Watsonia Place which is about 1,5 km from the Ranger's office. Park in the round-about at the end of Watsonia Avenue taking care not to obstruct any driveways. Walk through the gate on the right-hand side of the round-about and follow the path down to the crags. When you reach the top of the crags you can either scramble down next to 'One Crater Later' or abseil off the anchors near the middle of the crag.



The Climbing

The Boneyard was the first crag to be developed as a sport climbing venue in Kloof Gorge. Apart from two 18s the routes are all in the 20 to 28 grade range so, whilst this is a popular venue with 'hard men', it is not really suitable for beginners and 'weekend climbers'. The crag offers excellent face climbing and is in shade most of the day and is thus an excellent venue to climb on hot summer days when most other crags are baking in the sun. The crag got its name from the misadventure of one of the early route openers who abbed off the end of his ropes and ended up in hospital. The route he was working on was subsequently called 'One Crater Later' !

The Boneyard : Route Descriptions

The following routes are listed from left to right.

1. Going Gonzo (26) [6B] ***

FA: Grant Murray (1991)

This is a long, steep route with a couple of good rests. Pull straight through the small roof towards the top then move left to the arete and exit up the slab.

2. Going Gonzo with King Louis (28) [7B; C] ****

FA: Roger Nattrass (1992)

Climb 'Going Gonzo' to the 6 th bolt. Move slightly right to a corner and then continue straight up the short, bouldery headwall (crux). This slight variation is more strenuous and direct than the original route. Strange that such a minor variation is credited with a name of it's own - 'Going Gonzo Direct' would seem more appropriate!

3. Shea Khan (25) [6B; Trad; C] ***

FA: Mike Cartwright (1990)

Start as for 'Going Gonzo'. Move slightly right after the first bolt. The crux is just below the top so make good use of the few rests available - if you can find them. Shares chains with the next route. The bolts are widely spaced but may be supplemented with trad gear.

4. Bonsai (24) [5B; Trad; C] ****

FA: R Kohle (1992)

This route is easily identified by the huge glue-in ring bolts placed by a party of visiting Germans who nabbed this excellent line. Take along a No 3 and a No 2 Friend and make sure you don't miss the less than obvious holds at the crux.

5. Jungle Book (21) [Trad; C] **

FA: Pete Lazarus (1990)

This line takes the blocky arete just to the right of 'Bonasi'. The first half is a bit grotty and the crux is tricky to protect but the top half provides some fun climbing.

6. Mowgli Meets the Virgin Vampire (23) [8B; C] ****

FA: Clive Curson (1994)

 RD ???

7. Voodoo Guru (26) [7B; C] ****

FA: Roger Nattrass (1990)

This line used to share a common start with 'Dance Macabre' but has been bolted to give an independent line.

8. Dance Macabre (26) [6B; C] *****

FA: Roger Nattrass (1989)

If you make it through the ingenious cruxes lower down, watch out for the "pump from hell" on the last couple of tweaky edges. This is a superb route with sustained face climbing.

9. Satanic Mechanic (24) [5B; C] ***

FA: Roger Nattrass (1990)

Start as for 'Dance Macabre' but move off to the right after the first bolt and then continue straight up climbing parallel to 'Dance Macabre'. This long route offers some great moves on strange pocketed features. Named for the huge 12 mm bolts on the route.

10. The Grim Reaper (23) [10B; C] *****

FA: Grant Murray (1989)

Despite two hands-off rests, this classic route offers a wide variety of excellent moves. At one stage it was the target of a retrobolting and bolt-chopping controversy.

11. Dancing in the Zombie Zoo (17) [Trad; C] **

FA: Unknown

Climb the big corner to the right of the 'Grim Reaper'.

12. Stone Biter (24) [4B; Trad; C] ***

FA: M Jager (1992) - presumably part of the same German party that opened 'Bonsai'

Climb the mildly overhanging arete to the right of '…Zombie Zoo'. The last move for the finishing jug must be made with the prospect of a safe but huge whipper. The widely placed bolts can be supplemented by trad gear.

13. The Vulture's Feast (21) [9B; C] ***

FA: Grant Murray (1989)

Climbing up slightly to the right of the bolt line reduces the grade significantly.

14. In Retrospect (17) [9B; C] ***

FA: Clive Curson (1994)

Sustained moves on good edges - a great warm up.

15. Myopic Buzzard (20) [10B; C] **

FA: Clive Curson (1994)

This is merely a minor extension of the previous route involving a reachy move past the first set of anchors.

16. Road Kill (19) [9B; C] ***

FA: Clive Curson (1994)

17. Separate Tables (25) [C; 4B; C] ***

Scramble up or abseil down to the belay anchors at the bottom and then climb the overhanging face above.

There are abseil anchors near the top of this climb.

18. Flinstone's Kid (22) [8B; C] ****

FA: Grant Murray (1991)

A long, right-tending line with some pumpy moves at the end. Don't get confused by the bolts that appear higher up near the arete on the left. These are due to the fact that the next route crosses over 'Flintstone's Kid' and then follows the arete.

19. Total Anarchy (19) [10B; C] ***

FA: Clive Curson (1994)

Start just to the right of 'Flintstone's Kid' and climb up tending slightly right until you cross over that route and reach a position blow an arete on the top half of the face. Follow the arete to the top.

20. Harvey Wall Banger (24) [3B; Trad; C] ***

FA Grant Murray (1991)

Unless you are feeling invincible the three bolts need to be supplemented by some trad gear. The crux is atypical and involves a continuous side-pull combination. Shares chains with 'Flinstone's Kid'.

21. Le Chopping Block (18) [Trad; C] **

FA: Grant Cockburn (1990)

Climb the big left-facing corner.

22. Surfing with the Alien (25) [Trad; 1B; C] ***

FA: Pete Lazarus (1990)

Start just to the right of the previous route and climb up through the thin crack-line above. The gear is mainly fiddley wires. A bolt protect the final moves. Do not try and climb straight up past the bolt. Clip it and move slightly right, then up and then back left again.

23. Tsunami (23) [7B; C] *****

FA: Grant Murray (1991)

Crank up through roofs on good buckets to gain the superb arete to the right of 'Le Chopping Block' corner and follow this to the top. Don't let the first few awkward moves put you off - this is one of the best routes at the crag.

24. Chubasco (23) [9B; C] ****

FA: Grant Murray (1992)

Twenty metres of superb face climbing.

25. One Crater Later (26) [5B; C] ****

FA: Gerald Camp (1990)

Yet another excellent line at this venue. So named after the first ascentionist abbed off the end of his rope and landed on his head.

There is a scramble-out up to the right of 'One Crater Later'.