Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2004 ©
Important: You must sign the register before climbing - see details below. The strongest possible action will be taken against climbers who endanger access by failing to sign in, or by any other irresponsible behaviour.
Those who are familiar with the area can skip to the route guides. The rest of you please read on:
Many thanks to Roger Nattrass for permission to use information from his excellent book, "A Climber's Guide to Natal Rock". Additional information was obtained from a booklet titled "A Sport Climbing Guide - KwaZulu-Natal " produced by Harley Green. Gerald Camp provided useful information and Scott Sinclair did the final review.
The Kloof Gorge complex is a large convoluted system with numerous side-gullies. There are about eight separate climbing areas located in different parts of the gorge and each crag requires a separate approach. All the climbing in Kloof Gorge is on typical Natal Series sandstone of excellent quality. Most of the routes at each crag are fully bolted except at Rumdoodle which is about 50% bolted and Boothill which is mainly trad. Rumdoodle and Boothill have a mixture of hard and easy climbs whilst the Canyon and the Boneyard, etc. tend to have much harder lines.
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The entire Kloof Gorge system lies within the Kranskloof Nature Reserve and falls under the juristriction of KZN Wildlife. Climbers should take care to conform to the behavioural standards that are appropriate in any such area. The public currently has free access to the Nature Reserve - "free" meaning 'no charge', and not meaning 'unconditional'. Before each day's climbing it is essential that climbers sign the register kept in a building adjacent to the Ranger's House in Bridle Road, at the uppermost end of the gorge - see below for directions.
In case you can't access or print the map, here is a brief description that should enable you to locate the venue. Kloof Gorge is situated a few kilometres east of the N3 toll road between Pietermaritzburg and Durban. It is about 30 km from central Durban and some 50 km from Pietermaritzburg. When travelling from either city on the N3 toll road, take the first glide off that leads to the M13 - this is Exit 35 if you're heading south from PMB and Exit 17 if you're heading north from Durban.
If approaching from the Durban side, leave the M13 at the top of Field's Hill, at Exit 22 and follow this road for about 1,3 km until it swings to the right and crosses back over the M13 on a fly-over. Continue past a shopping complex on your right to a T-junction at a traffic circle. From here, go 3/4s of the way (270 degrees) around this circle before exiting - you are now heading back towards Durban with Stokers Pub on your left. Continue 100 m to a second traffic circle and exit this on the far side (1/2 way around, 180 degrees).
If approaching from the Pietermaritzburg side, leave the M13 at Exit 24 and follow this road for about 1,3 km until you reach the first traffic circle described above. Exit this on the opposite side and continue to the second traffic circle.
Whichever approach you use, after passing the second traffic circle, proceed as follows:
Take the first road left - about 50 m after the second circle. This short road is little more than a bridge across a railway line and ends at a T-junction. Turn left at the T-junction and follow the road until it swings to the right (past an old church on the left) and comes to another T-junction with Albelia Road. Turn left into Albelia Road, then immediately right into Kloof Falls Road which eventually becomes Bridle Road. Continue for just over 3 km along this road as it winds down into the valley. At its lowest point the road crosses a stream. Here there is a large parking and picnic area on the right and the Ranger's office on the left. The "Sign-In Register" is kept in the Ranger's office (see also map above).
After signing the register you may now depart for the various crags.