Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
Note: All the climbs from the Little Saddle to the
Litter are accessible from the upper Didima valley - this is also known
as Eastman's Fork. To get there, drive to the top of Mike's Pass (Map
#2 : AO:48) then walk across to junction C11 at the bottom of Organ
Pipes Pass (Map #2 : AO:52). Continue down Phillip's Folly (AP:53) to
reach the start of the upper Didima valley.
LITTLE SADDLE: South Peak: Frontal Route (F2)
(Map #2 : AM:55 : 3073m)
Opening Party: Gavin Peckham, Bruce Sobey and Richard Groenewegen.
Date: 29 August 1999.
Time: 5 hours climbing.
The Little Saddle is located about midway between the tops of Organ
Pipes and Tlanyaku Passes. The route is clearly visible as a striking
profile against the skyline when looking south from Organ Pipes Pass in
the vicinity of the old fire lookout hut.
Approach: Either walk up Organ Pipes Pass and then walk south to the
top of the route. Three 50 m abs from the top should take you to the
bottom of the route. There is a good ab block at the top, but since we
did not ab down the route ourselves, we cannot be certain that suitable
ab points will be found lower down. Anyone trying this approach should
take prussik loops and pegs.
Alternatively, the route may be approached from below by walking up
the long grass ridge that leads up from Schoongezicht Cave in the upper
Didima valley. This ridge ends in a series of rocky knolls that guard
the approach to the base of the peak. The knolls are probably best
bypassed on the north side. This will probably require some C grade
scrambling. Bypassing the knolls on the south side requires finding a
way through a complex series of very steep rock and grass ledges. Note:
We cannot comment firsthand on these possible approaches as we had the
great fortune to be the beneficiaries of a free helicopter ride!
From the topmost knoll, walk along a horizontal ridge towards the
base of the peak. Scramble up a short grass gully to reach the highest
grass ledge at the base of the peak. Start on the far right hand side
of the grass ledge.
- 45m E. Climb more or less straight up on mixed rock and grass
following the line of least resistance until you get to a steep, narrow
grass ledge. A steep, grassy chute about 20 m long, leads straight up
from this grass ledge. The only belay found was a couple of cracks
under a somewhat suspect looking boulder in the middle of the steep
grass ledge and a couple of metres to the left of the base of the
grassy chute.
- 40m F2 Climb the steep, grassy chute sticking mainly to the rock on
its right hand edge. From the top of the chute move up diagonally left
to reach a broad, but steep grass ledge. Gear placings for a belay will
be found high up in the rock at the back of the grass ledge.
- 40m F1. Start just left of the belay and scramble up a steep,
narrow grass ramp that rises diagonally to the right. At the top of the
ramp, move up diagonally left, to reach the left hand side of a large
recess in the rock. There is a fixed peg at the base of this rock. Move
diagonally to the right, across the left face of the recess, heading
for the crack at the top. Exit the recess via the crack onto a broad,
steep grass ledge. Belay in a small cubby hole where it is possible to
sit in a very well braced position. A sling around two large but
slightly loose boulders in the cubbyhole, provides some extra security
to the belay. Just left of the cubbyhole is flat area at the base of
the rock. Climbers following the leader can wait safely here whilst the
next pitch is climbed.
- 30m F2. From the right of the cubbyhole, move up 5m diagonally
right to a 2m flake leaning against the base of a short vertical wall.
Climb onto the flake and then directly up the short wall above. From
here, climb up diagonally left on easy rock for about 15m to an
excellent, airy stance formed by three small, stepped rock ledges with
good cracks for a textbook belay.
- 30m F1. Clip a shaky fixed peg about 2 m above the leftmost belay
ledge and then move out delicately left around the exposed corner. From
here move up diagonally left for a couple of metres to reach easier
ground and then scramble to the summit.
Descent: Depending on your approach, you can either abseil down the front of the peak or walk off via Organ Pipes Pass.
Comments: On all pitches the protection is good, and adequate
without being abundant. The amount of grass detracts somewhat from the
appeal of the line. Regarding the somewhat lengthy time taken to open
this climb, we quote Peter Angus-Leppan who said, ". . .much of the
time was spent route finding and on one of the most pressing problems
of Drakensberg rock climbing - finding sound belays."
Ref: MCSA Journal 1999, pg 163.
SUGAR LOAF (E)
(Map#2 : AN:56 : 2723m)
Opening Party: Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder.
Date: 19 September 1999.
Walk up the narrow grass ridge leading up to the Sugar Loaf. This
ridge is the one adjacent to the south side of the strong stream that
runs down between the south peak of the Little Saddle and the Sugar
Loaf. There are several horizontal steps on this ridge that make
convenient campsites. Water is always available in the stream mentioned
above. Follow the ridge up to within about 50m of the start of the
north east arete of the Sugar Loaf and then traverse off to the right
across the grass slopes below the sheer north face. This traverse gives
access to an easy grass gully that leads up to the nek between the
Sugar Loaf and the adjacent buttress on the escarpment.
From the nek a groove leads up into a cleft in the peak. Climb the
excellent rock just right of the groove for about 10m (D). Avoid some
loose rocks at the top by moving a couple of metres to the right, then
up, then back left to reach a grassy step below a chockstone in the
cleft. The chockstone is clearly visible from the nek. Straddle up to
gain the gully above the chockstone (3m E). Belay in the gully.
Continue up the gully, climbing three small rock steps (D) then
scramble up a grassy chute and walk across to the summit.
Descent: Scramble down the grassy chute then move out left (facing
out) onto the rock above the highest rock step in the gully. Here there
is a good block from which a 45m abseil reaches the nek.
Comments: The MCSA Journal, 1935, pg 76 and Pat Irwin's "The Natal
Drakensberg", 2nd edition, pg E5 make reference to previous ascents of
the 'Sugar Loaf'. It is clear, however, that these texts actually refer
to the adjacent buttress attached to the escarpment (2949m) and not to
the freestander (2723m) in front of and below it, that is now known as
the Sugar Loaf.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1999, pg 167.
EASTMAN'S PEAK (D)
(Map #2 : AT:56 : 2581m)
Opening Party: H A 'Grandpa' Eastman and party.
Date: July1935.
From the bottom of Phillip's Folly, follow the contour path parallel
to Eastman's Ridge via junctions C12 to C15. There are several possible
approaches. The quickest is to continue along the contour path for
about a kilometre past junction C15. Then, walk up a grass ridge that
leads up to the top of the gully that starts on the north face,
immediately below the summit cone. Where this gully abuts onto the main
north face, walk up diagonally to the right along a grass ledge to
reach a flat step on the crest of the main north west ridge. Scramble
up the first small nose of rock (exposed C grade). Climb the next rock
step (15m D) on good rock with adequate protection. Scramble up the
ridge to the summit. The spectacular 360 degree view from the summit is
sufficient reason to climb this well-known peak.
Descent: From the top of the D pitch a 20m abseil down the north
face reaches a broad grass ledge. A 40m abseil from a block on this
ledge reaches the grass ledge that runs across the base of the north
face. This area is often quite dry, but water may usually be found in
the stream that runs down from the north face, at a point just below
the contour path.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1935, pg 73.
SKONKWANE (The Beacon) (D)
(Map #2 : AQ:59)
Opening Party: Brian Clark and Andrew Gruft.
Date: July 1960.
Although it was originally approached from below, it is probably
easier to walk up Tlanyaku Pass and then head south to Didima Cave
(AP:60). The nek between Skonkwane and the escarpment may be reached by
a C grade scramble down a gully on the escarpment or much more
strenuously from below. Do not be misled by the original and subsequent
RDs that refer to a suitable campsite 'at the bifurcation of the Didima
River.' The bifurcation referred to is actually halfway up Tlanyaku
Pass.
If approaching from below, a two hour slog leads to the base of the
pinnacle. The Skonkwane - escarpment gully runs down from the nek and
then ends in an unclimbable, overhanging groove. The trick is to get
into the gully above this groove. Do this by scrambling up easy broken
rock and grass on the right of the Skonkwane - escarpment gully,
starting from a small saddle behind two pinnacles that are clearly
visible from below. Gain height by scrambling up a few B grade pitches
to reach a level at which it is possible to traverse left into the
gully at a height above the overhanging groove in the gully.
Traverse left - a few meters of exposed D grade - to a grass ledge
that leads left and across some slabs towards the gully. A few more D
grade moves lead into the gully just above the groove. The gully itself
is a very deep chasm with huge rock walls towering over it on both
sides. Continue upwards climbing a series of C/D pitches to the nek.
Drop down about 15m on the other (east) side of the nek and traverse
along a narrow, heather-covered ledge for about 30m. Another 30m D
pitch leads around a sort of rock bollard and up onto the summit ridge.
A scramble leads to the top.
Descent: A short abseil reaches the nek. Scramble up a gully onto the escarpment and descend via Tlanyaku Pass.
Comment: In the original Journal article the name of this peak is
given variously as Skonkwaan and Skonkwan. It seems that the name
derives from the Zulu word for a beacon, namely 'isiKhonkwane'.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1960, pg 130 and photo facing pg 128.
SHARK'S TOOTH (E)
(Map #2 : AQ:59)
Opening Party: Brian Godbold, Colin Inglis and Elsie Esterhuizen.
Date: 1950.
This fang is located immediately in front (north) of Skonkwane. It is graded E but no other details are available.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1960, pg 130 and photo facing pg 128.
UNWABU (The Chameleon) (D)
(Map #2 : AR:59)
Opening Party: Gavin Peckham, Carl Fatti and Tristan Firman.
Date: 27 September 1997.
Walk up the path along the upper Didima River (Eastman's Fork). At
its most south eastern extremity the path makes a sharp turn, crosses
the upper Didima River and then zig-zags up the side of Eastman's
Ridge. At the river crossing a broad grass ridge sweeps up to the
south. Walk up the ridge, bypass a rocky knoll and then continue up the
ridge to the rock face above. There is a large, narrow, rocky ridge on
the left-hand side of the main rock face. This narrow ridge slopes up
to, and abuts onto the main rock face.
By one of various routes, scramble up onto the ridge - grade C or D
depending on your choice. Continue carefully up the ridge to the point
where it abuts onto the main rock face. From here scramble along a
ledge of mixed rock and grass which rises diagonally to the right in a
series of steps. This ledge crosses the entire frontal face and
requires some D grade moves. From the end of the ledge, turn to the
left and scramble up the obvious line to the summit. Descend by the
same route.
Comments: The peak comes within a hair's breadth of being a
free-stander, but is unfortunately connected to the escarpment by
curving knife-edge of rotten rock. When viewed from the valley below,
the peak blends so completely with the escarpment that it is not
possible to discern its existence. For this reason the Zulu name for a
chameleon, 'Unwabu' was thought be appropriate
Ref: MCSA Journal 1998, pg 137.
ISIKHOVA (The Owl): Frontal Route (E)
(Map #2 : AS:59)
Opening Route: Malcolm Griffin, Henri Snijders and party.
Date: 19 July 1960.
Isikhova is a conical free standing peak close to the escarpment. To
reach the peak, walk up the grass ridge to the east of the one that
leads up to Unwabu - see previous RD. At the base of the rock, walk
left to a point about 30m before the left hand skyline. The rock is of
reasonably good quality.
- 35m D. Climb the C/D grassy gully to a broken ledge.
- 15m E. Climb a black recess for 5m, traverse 3m round a nose to the left and then climb a 90 degree recess to a sloping ledge.
- 30m D. Traverse diagonally up to the left for 10m and then climb up a rib of rock to a comfortable stance.
- 100m D. There is a C/D scramble along an exposed knife-edge to the top.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1961, pg 66.
ISIKHOVA (The Owl): Gully Route (E)
(Map #2 : AS:59)
Opening Party: Ernst Lotz and party.
Date: 19 July 1960.
Use the same approach described for the previous route. From the
base of the rock, traverse around to the right and climb up the first
gully to the nek. Halfway up, this gully is blocked by a chockstone,
necessitating a short E grade deviation on its left hand side. From the
nek, the western arete is gained by a short section of D grade
climbing. The arete is followed to the summit. From the nek the
escarpment can be easily reached. Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
Ref: MCSA Journal 1961, pg 66.
THE LITTER (D)
(Map #2 : AU:58)
Opening Party: Doyle Liebenberg, Doc Ripley, Harry Barker, Stanley Rose, Mary Lear and Rene Hodson.
Date: 1935.
The south eastern end of Eastman's Ridge sweeps up to join the main
escarpment. The last kilometre or so of the ridge is known as The
Litter. The Litter ridge lies parallel to, and about 1½ km west of, the
Dragon's Back Ridge - see next RD. The Litter ends in a series of rock
'fingers' connected by narrow 'shoulders' (neks?). The original RD is
extremely vague, but it seems that you simply scramble up the crest of
the ridge. The only section of relevance is, "The rock climb proved
fairly easy and the summit confronted us with a vast cascade of black
krantzes : for the wrinkled brow of the berg frowned at us across a
profound chasm about 150 feet (50m) wide." Because of this chasm, it is
apparently not possible to continue up the ridge onto the escarpment.
If you can make anything of this RD you deserve a medal.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1935, pg 83.
FOURTH CIGAR (E)
(Map #2 : AW:58)
Opening Party: Probably F E 'Tom' Ellis, Brian Godbold and party in
July 1933. Possibly Des Watkins, Gillian Bettle and Lionel Ashley in
May 1952.
The Dragon's Back is a jagged ridge leading down from the
escarpment. It starts just north of the top of Grey's Pass and runs
down to end at Intunja (AY:57). At the top, the ridge starts with four
flat-topped buttresses and then descends in a series of jagged
peaklets. The first three flat-topped buttresses are attached to the
escarpment, but the fourth is a freestander. It's name derives from the
fact that the Dragon's Back was formerly know as Cigar Ridge. The
reason for the name change is unknown.
The start of this climb is badly described, but "a left hand descent
of the (Inkosazana) falls leads to an obvious C traverse." and by
"getting lost in the mist" the start of the climb was reached.
From the start (wtmb), "climb to the right of a large block up some
30 feet (10m), and 120 feet (40m) of D. A right hand traverse leads to
20 feet (6m) of E and an obvious 80 foot (25m) E chimney to the
summit." People who write RDs like this should be sentenced to sit on
committees for the rest of their lives.
An article in the 1933 Journal describes an ascent of various
pinnacles along this ridge and although there is no specific reference
to the 'Fourth Cigar', it is most probable that Ellis' party climbed
this peak almost 20 years before Watkins' party.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1933, pg 76; 1953, pg 66 and photo facing pg 66.
AMPHLETT (D)
(Map #2 : AZ:58 : 2620m)
Probably first climbed by the Stocker brothers in 1888 or by G T
Amphlett in 1912. The first recorded ascent was in July 1933 by Mr and
Mrs Cameron and Mr Gild. It is clear from the reference (see below)
that this party was well aware of previous ascents and thus made no
claim to an opening ascent.
The peak may be approached in various ways. The easiest is probably
to walk along the contour path, heading north from Blind Man's Corner
(junction M13). Just before (south) of junction M2, a steep grassy
gully leads up to a nek. Walk up to the nek and then traverse around
behind Amphlett working your way up across the western slopes. A major
rock band encircles the peak above these lower grass slopes. Continue
along the grass ledge and around to the south west side of the peak
where an easy grass gully leads through the rock band. Scramble up to
the rock on the right hand side (south) of the summit. Follow a line of
weakness that leads up diagonally to the right (away from the summit)
and up onto the summit ridge. Scramble up this knife-edge ridge to the
summit. Two pitches of C grade climbing with the odd D move on good
rock are involved. The faint of heart may find the security of a rope
desirable.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1933, pg 78.
TURRET (C+)
(Map #2 : AZ:58 : 2670m)
Opening Party: F E 'Tom' Ellis, Brian Godbold and party.
Date: July 1933.
Approach as for Amphlett and then scramble across to the nek between
Amphlett and Turret. Walk around the base of the Turret to the west
side. Here a cleft in the west face gives surprisingly easy access to
the summit. Various single pitch routes have been opened on the other
faces.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1933, pg 78.
STERKHORN
(Map #2 : AZ:59 : 2973m)
Sterkhorn has three summits. The north and south and summits are
reasonably large with the south summit being the highest. The middle
summit is very small and is about the same height as the north summit.
Access to the north summit is by way of an easy and well-worn path. The
other two summits require more serious climbing. From the path up the
north summit, a grass ledge below the north summit gives access to the
other two summits. The ascent of Sterkhorn was the first recorded rock
climb of a serious nature in the Drakensberg. Over the years it seems
that there have been numerous ascents of the peak by a wide variety of
differing and unrecorded routes. The RDs of the recorded routes are
generally so vague as to be hardly worth repeating - common sense and a
smattering of route finding ability should suffice.
STERKHORN: North Summit (C)
Opening Party: Rev A H and F R Stocker.
Date: May 1888.
The Stocker bother's original route to the top of the north summit
was a very indirect line resulting from a failed attempt on the south
summit. The Alpine Journal 1889, pg 399 apparently gives a detailed RD
of the route, but copy of this Journal was not readily available.
Nowadays, this peak is easily ascended by a good path, starting from
the contour path and leading up the east ridge. Some unexposed C grade
scrambling through rock bands and an interesting 'worm hole' near the
top are involved. The use of a rope is quite unnecessary.
Ref: Reg Pearse, 'Barrier of Spears' 2nd ed. pg 69.
STERKHORN: Middle Summit (F1)
One pitch of F1 grade on the east ridge provides pleasant climbing to the top. No details of the first ascent have been found.
STERKHORN: South Summit: South East Chimney (F)
Opening Party : Rev A H and F R Stocker.
Date : July 1888.
This route is not easy and involves two chimneys, one with a
difficult chockstone, a tricky traverse on the east buttress and back
onto the south east ridge, under an overhanging rock, up one final
chimney and onto the top. Abseil down the west face. The Alpine Journal
1889, pg 400 apparently gives a detailed RD, but copy of this Journal
was not readily available.
Ref: Reg Pearse, 'Barrier of Spears' 2nd ed. pg 70.
STERKHORN: South Summit: West Face (E)
Opening Party: Mark Frank, Brian Godbold, and F E 'Tom' Ellis.
Date: July 1935.
It seems that this route starts up the north west ridge and
traverses at a fairly high level left on the Mhlwazine side. The first
pitch consists of an F standard overhang. Traverse around to the right
and into a gully and climb for about 20m. Traverse left up to a grassy
ledge and then climb a difficult chimney for 10m up onto a ridge.
Descend the other side and traverse to avoid the difficult rocks above.
Climb to the top.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1935, pg 77.
STERKHORN: South Summit: North West Corner (E)
Doyle Liebenberg's 'The Drakensberg of Natal', pg 158 lists the
opening party as: Jack Drake, Ronald Butcher, E 'Bill' Barclay and
Laura Kelsall and cites the MCSA Journal of 1933, pg 79. This Journal,
however, makes no reference to the said party. Instead it indicates
that F E 'Tom' Ellis, Mr Gild and Mark Frank climbed the route in July
1933.
Unrecorded earlier ascents of the south summit were made by Ronald
Butcher, a party led by Tom Wood and a party led by Tom Ellis. Ref:
MCSA Journal 1935, pg 78.