Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
UMKULUNKULU (F1/A2)
Opening Party: Herman Vogl, Joseph Khun, Franz Schock and Clive Ward.
Date: Easter 1973.
This impressive free-stander is somewhere below the Mnweni Pinnacles
on the Rwanqa pass (north) side - more info please! The photo in the
Journal will help to identify the peak. The pinnacle is approached from
the Rwanqa valley. The climb starts from the highest point on the nek
between the pinnacle and the escarpment.
- 45m E2. Climb 20m straight up, then traverse right 25m to a large ledge where there is a piton.
- 20m F and A1. Climb a wall and crack above the ledge. An etrier was used to exit the crack. Belay in a recess on a ledge.
- 25m F1 and A2. Climb up through a break in the wall from the recess to reach a ledge. Three etrier moves are necessary.
- 25m F1 and A2. Climb an overhanging crack on the left side of the ledge to reach easy rock.
- 40m F1. Traverse right to a small recess. Climb straight up this
(with one 'sling move') and then climb diagonally left to the summit.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1973, pg 130 and photo facing pg 130.
INKULU (F2)
Opening Party: Jerry Linke and Clive Ward.
Date: Easter, 1975.
A stout column set behind Umkulunkulu - a great help if you can
first find Umkulunkulu! Facing Inkulu from the valley, the climb takes
the right-hand side, starting below a false col.
- 40m F2. Traverse to the left until a moss-covered crack is reached.
Climb the wall 3m to the right of the crack (sling tension move) then
move to the left into the crack and climb to a stance.
- 35m F1. Move up easy ground to the base of a chimney, then climb straight to the top of a small pinnacle.
- 30m F2. Step over onto a wall, move up and traverse slightly to the left. Climb to a grassy ledge.
- 40m F1. Climb a small chockstone crack to easy ground. Scramble to the summit.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1978, pg 96.
THE MNWENI PINNACLES
The Mnweni
Pinnacles are amongst the largest free standers in the Drakensberg and
should not be under-estimated. The routes on these pinnacles are all
very long. There is a dramatic photo of the Pinnacles on page 174 of
the first edition of Reg Pearse's "Dragon's Wrath". Unfortunately the
aspect shows few details of the various routes, but it gives a good
impression of the magnitude and severity of the routes.
INNER MNWENI PINNACLE (F3)
(Map #1 : P:39 : 3096m)
Opening Party: Jannie Graaff, Phyl Goodwin, Bob de Carle and Roy Buckland.
Date: 16 July 1949.
Time: A long day.
From Pins Cave (O:39) or Chichi Bush Camp (Q:39), make your way down
or up, as the case may be, to the nek between the Inner and Outer
Pinnacles. From a position to the right (NW) of the nek a large
chimney/gully, 150m long, splits the face of the Inner Pin. The chimney
tends slightly to the left and its upmost section forms the gully that
separates a large gendarme on the left from the main peak on the right.
- 40m E. From the highest point on the nek climb up tending left for
10m then traverse right until it is possible to climb up easily and
enter the chimney. Walk up to the start of the next steep section.
- 40m F3. Climb the difficult chimney above, passing a large, flat
chockstone on the way. Belay at the first secure 'step' in the gully.
- 30m E. Continue easily up the chimney. Belay below the next steep section.
- 35m F2. Climb the tricky chimney and continue up to the nek between
a large gendarme on the left and the main pinnacle on the right.
- 20m C. Climb up from the right side of the nek and then traverse
left around a shoulder towards the escarpment. Scramble up right to a
small grassy nek about 10m directly above the previous nek.
- 25m E. Traverse out right on a grass ledge then climb up diagonally
right on steep grass and broken rock to reach a small ledge which is
visible from the start of the pitch. Belay on this ledge. There are
good pegs at head-height.
- 45m D. Continue traversing to the right and around a corner. When
the ledge ends, climb down about 8m to a lower ledge. Continue
traversing right past a cubbyhole and across exposed rock to where the
ledge becomes grassy again. Belay about 5m along this ledge at a fixed
peg - mainly because you run short of rope here. Walk a further 15m to
the right, along the ledge to the base of another chimney.
- 30m E. Climb 2/3 of the chimney (approx 20m) to below an
overhanging section and then out to the right and onto the final ridge.
It has been reported that after moving out right, it seems impossible
to gain the 'final ridge'. In this case, move back left into the
chimney above the difficult section and continue up to a belay in a
good cubbyhole. As another short pitch, break out of the cubbyhole on
the right and then up on good holds - very exposed - to reach a grass
shoulder adjacent to a large block.
- 30m D. From the grassy shoulder, walk to the left and then up to
the base of a rock band. Climb this, taking the line of least
resistance by heading up diagonally left and then scramble to the top.
Descent. Abseil back down the route, reversing the traverses on the way. At all costs, do not be tempted to abseil off the top straight down to the nek with the gendarme.
Don't be misled by the 4 hour ascent and the "E" grade mentioned in the original RD! This route is not an E grade doddle! Subtle(?) evidence of this is the steady decrease in the amount of old ab-cord as you climb higher.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1950, pg 48.
OUTER MNWENI PINNACLE: East Arete (F3/A1)
(Map #1 : P:39 : 3099m)
Opening Party: Martin Winter, Pam and Peter Angus Leppan.
Date: March 1959.
Time: Another long day.
There are two small caves in the Rwanqa valley on the border between
grid blocks P:37 and Q:37. These are just left (south) of the path up
to Rwanqa Pass (M:38) and serve as a useful base for the climb. From
here, slog up one of the two steep grass ridges near the cave. Both
ridges require scrambling through or around rocky obstacles here and
there. They converge at a large knoll (spot height 2672m, P:38). Bypass
the knoll on the right and then head for the broad, grass ledge that
runs across the base of the pinnacle. This requires climbing through a
couple of significant rock bands that are most easily breached either
on the far right or on the far left. One on the uppermost grass ledge,
make for the nek between Mt Neefie (spot height 2936m, P:39) and the
Outer Pin. A scramble on mixed rock and grass leads to the right of a
small gendarme situated in this nek. Note that the nek cannot be
reached from the south (Pins Pass side).
- 20m F2. From the left of the nek climb 2m up a small recess then
step across left to another small recess. Move up and left around a
corner and then up past a spike of rock to reach the start of a very
narrow, grassy ledge on south face of the peak.
- 30m E. Walk left along the ledge and around a slight corner for
about 10m to a point just before the ledge broadens. From here climb up
heading diagonally left at first, and then diagonally right to reach a
belay with two good pegs on a grassy shoulder under an overhang.
- 20m F3/A1. Walk left for 3m and then climb down awkwardly (2m) to a
small ledge at the base of an open book. The left side of the open book
is split vertically by a crack. Climb the crack with great difficulty
and belay above. Take off your hat and salute the opening party who
climbed this crack without the benefit of rock shoes or cams. Scramble
diagonally right and up onto the crest of the impressive arete that
leads steeply up to the distant summit.
Walk, scramble and climb up the arete with only one short D pitch
before the last large (30m) step is reached. To reach the foot of this
face, avoid some blocks by traversing on the left and then climb a
short easy chimney. After a 4m easy face (E), a ledge runs out on the
north side. Proceed along this ledge for 15m and climb up a crack which
is followed by an easy sloping chimney (D). Scramble to the top.
Descent: Follow the same route down with the exception that it is
better not to abseil down pitches 2 and 3. Instead, abseil from a point
higher up the arete and straight down onto the broad grass ledge below.
From here, walk right to the top of pitch 1, and then down to the nek.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1959, pg 109 and photo1976, pg 120.
OUTER MNWENI PINNACLE: South Face (F3)
(Map #1 : P:39 : 3099m)
Opening Party: Dion Tromp, Kevin Tromp, Mervyn Prior and Tony Chinery.
Date: July1976.
Time: 11 hours from Pins Cave to the summit and back to the cave.
Commence at the nek between the Pins, directly opposite the start of
the Inner Pinnacle route. A small gendarme involving 30m of E grade
climbing is first negotiated. From here cross over to the main south
face and traverse along the obvious, narrow, grass ledge running to the
right for about 150m until a small rock ramp is reached. Surmount the
ramp (D), and then move up a steep slope for about 50m to a position
below a vertical arete.
Climb the arete, which includes pitches of F3, F and E grade, until
a position is reached where it is possible to traverse 70m left, along
a ledge across the face. A vertical crack (10m E) is surmounted,
followed by mixed C and D climbing to the summit. Copyright: MCSA-KZN
1998 ©
Ref: MCSA Journal 1976, pg 119 and photo pg 120.
OUTER MNWENI PINNACLE: Original Route (G/A0)
(Map #1 : P:39 : 3099m)
Opening Party: George Thomson and Charles Gloster.
Date: December 1948.
The original description of this climb is decidedly vague; this
possibly accounts for there having been only one known ascent. If you
can climb the route by following this RD you will make history!
Start in the nek between the pinnacles gain height by traversing
across the inner face and then back to above the start gaining about
30m (grassy traverses). Climb a 5m chimney and then, from a small grass
ledge, climb up an exposed D pitch for 15m to a small stance. (This was
called 'Honey Sucker' perch by the original party, as Des Watkins and
Barry Anderson waited here while the others completed the climb).
Traverse 4m right to reach a short, exposed G pitch on a large rock
that protrudes like a bird's beak. A piton is used as direct aid to
surmount the 'beak'. Once on the 'beak', balance up and reach, with
your right hand, for a fist jam in a hole. Reach up, trust to grass,
and continue up for about 8m to a good stance. 30m of D scrambling
leads to an 80m chimney (which is/isn't climbed?).
Climb up the nose for 10m (C), then climb 20m up the exposed ridge
(E) on good holds, over two detached boulders perched on top of each
other. The ridge now terminates. Climb down to the right for a few
metres, then traverse a little with good footholds, but no handholds
around a corner and onto a terrace. Descend 10m to a scrubby
depression. Cross the depression, ascend a chimney then scramble 50m to
the top.
Descent: Abseil down the route.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1952, pg 36.
MOUNT NEEFIE (D)
(Map #1 : P:39 : 2936m)
Opening Party: Jannie Graaff, Phyl Goodwin and 5 others.
Date: 18 July 1949.
This peak looks impressive from below, but from higher up it is
dwarfed by the adjacent Outer Mnweni Pinnacle. It is probably best
approached up the slopes from the Rwanqa valley to the north. The north
face is very broken. Follow the line of least resistance for several
pitches of C to D grade climbing to reach the summit.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1950, pg 49.
MNWENI CUTBACK
The Mnweni cutback is the deepest cutback in the Drakensberg.
There are numerous pinnacles here, the better known ones being
uCikicane, the Twelve Apostles and Eeny, Meeny, Miny and Mo. The
cutback is reached either by walking along the escarpment from National
Park or more usually by walking up Rockeries Pass. The walk to the
cutback would take at least a good long day, by any fit climber.
UCIKICANE (Little finger) (E)
(Map #1 : Q:41 : 2987m)
Opening Party: Martin Winter, Sherman Ripley and John Grindley.
Date: July 1958.
Time: 8 hours return to escarpment.
Approach uCikicane by descending a gully immediately to the south
west of the peak. In the gully it is necessary to climb down an easy
chimney and to leave a fixed rope at the next difficulty (a waterfall)
to facilitate the return. Descend all the way to the very bottom of the
pinnacle at the confluence of the various small tributaries.
Climb straight up the gully to the nek that separates the main
pinnacle from the other associated pinnacles - see comment below. There
are about 7 pitches of D and E standard, mainly chimneys. The last big
chimney below the nek is wide open at the bottom, but narrows with
blocking chockstones at the top. By climbing well inside, the
chockstones are bypassed but it is dark, narrow, smooth and very
strenuous.
From the nek scramble down a grass gully on the other side for about
30m to reach the foot of a small gully that leads up the middle of the
pinnacle (on the left). Climb a long pleasant chimney (D) in the gully
until it forks. Take the left fork that leads to a nek between the two
summits. Three short pitches of D, E and C grade are climbed to a point
where the left fork again splits. The right fork leads up to the nek
between the two summits. Ignore this and take the left fork which leads
up (D) to the higher of the two summits.
Descent: Climb and abseil down the same route.
Comment: The lower summit was not climbed on the original ascent but
may have been climbed since. Pam Angus-Leppan, Martin Blades and Peter
Sand climbed most of the smaller associated pinnacles on the same day.
Climb an easy descending pitch from the escarpment and then another
across to the group of pinnacles. After this it is just a matter of
scrambling from one to another.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1958, pg 89 and sketch on pg 90.
MNWENI NEEDLES
The Mnweni Needles are usually approached from the south. Turn
off the path to Rockeries Pass at the start (X:39) of the valley
leading up to the nek between the two peaks. Two kilometres upstream
the river forks (W:39) with the right fork running up to the nek. It is
easiest to scramble up the crest of the ridge between the two streams
for several hundred metres and then contour off the crest to the right
and down to the Mahlabatsi stream below at an altitude of about 2200m
(near the centre of block V:38). A small, flat, grassy camp site is
located just a few metres left of the stream and about 50m above a
broad, black band of rock that crosses the stream. All the routes on
the Needles are readily accessible from this well watered spot.
INNER MNWENI NEEDLE: Original Route (F)
(Map #1 : U:38 : 2905m)
Opening Party: Tony Hooper, Paul Fenger and Liz Burton.
Date: May 1943.
Time: 3 hours from the nek.
From the nek, climb straight up a steep 30m D section to a grass
ledge. Either climb straight up or, traverse well left and then up
diagonally right. Either way leads to a huge sloping grass ledge that
runs across the peak below the towering east face. Follow this grass
ledge to the right, and continue half way round the peak with a rising
traverse to a point between twin summits of the Inner Needle. Traverse
back left to where D grade climbing leads to a point below the summit
cone. Squeeze behind a block onto a ledge facing the Saddle. Climb a
short, tricky 10m crack (F). Two short, easy pitches lead to the summit
ridge.
Descent: Abseil more or less back down the route. Do not be tempted to abseil off the summit cone towards the Outer Needle.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1943, pg 22.
INNER MNWENI NEEDLE: South East Ridge (E)
(Map #1 : U:38 : 2905m)
Opening Party: Gavin Peckham and Frank Boase.
Date: 28 October 1995.
From the nek between the Needles, climb the first pitch of the
original route to reach the huge grass ledge. Walk straight up to the
base of the towering east face and then walk left along the base of the
face to a slab. Scramble up this slab to a narrow grass ledge. This
leads left and gently upwards to the south east ridge which forms the
left hand skyline. Three pitches of D grade, with a little scrambling
inbetween, lead almost straight up the ridge to the summit. This is
both quicker and easier than the original route. Abseil back down the
route.
The summit can probably be reached by following the south east ridge
all the way from its start at the fork between the Mahlabatsi and
Itshana Elibovana streams (W:39). This would save a long grovel up the
gully to the nek and would make the route independent of the first
pitch of the original route.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1996, pg 135.
OUTER MNWENI NEEDLE: Original Route (D)
(Map #1 : U:37 : 2890m)
Opening Party: Ken Cameron and D W Bassett-Smith.
Date: 1921.
The climb follows the prominent east ridge of the peak. At the
obvious obstacle, traverse right until able to scramble back up onto
the ridge. This scrambling is consistently tricky and exposed and a
rope may be considered advisable. On the descent the latter section can
be missed by a 40m abseil. The rest of the ridge is a walk, except for
a slight scramble up the summit cone.
Ref: MCSA Journals 1921, pg 128; 1938, pg 66.
OUTER MNWENI NEEDLE: South West Ridge (F2)
(Map #1 : U:37 : 2890m)
Opening Party: Gavin Peckham and Ivan van Cleef.
Date: 6 September 1996.
Scramble up to the nek between the two Needles. Go over the nek and
down the other (north west) side for about 50m. Traverse about 200m
north east towards the Outer Needle. This traverse leads around the
base of some minor pinnacles and leads to a steep, but easy
scree-filled gully. Follow the gully up to a nek between the minor
pinnacles and the Needle. An excellent photo of the Needles, viewed
from the north west, adorns the dust cover of the 2nd edition of Reg
Pearse's "Barrier of Spears". The route follows the right hand skyline
of the Outer Needle as seen in this photo. The two tiny pinnacles, and
one larger pinnacle, are also clearly visible in the nek.
Start from the nek between the Needle and the adjacent, major
pinnacle. Friction up a steep, smooth slab (5m D) to reach a broad
grass ledge. Walk up across the grass ledge, heading slightly right, to
the obvious start of the next pitch.
- 40m E. Climb up to a horizontal grass ledge. Traverse to the right
along the line of grass until it is possible to climb up further. Belay
on a sloping grass shoulder.
Walk up onto a broad, gently sloping grass ridge and follow the
crest of this ridge for about 200m to where it ends at a vertical rock
step.
- 25m F2. Climb the rock step and belay on a small rock turret that is just visible in the photo mentioned above.
- 25m F1. Climb or jump down 2m from the turret onto a flat rock
'tabletop'. Traverse left, around a corner for a couple of moves (very
exposed) to gain a short, steep ramp / slab with a small, protruding
block near the top (aah, gear at last!). Climb the slab until it is
possible to step to the right onto the top of the block. Continue up on
easy rock to a comfortable belay.
- 25m E. Climb a recess / open book and belay at a point where the
steep rock ends. From here a 200m rocky ridge, involving some C grade
scrambling, leads to the summit.
Abseil back down the route. This is a good line and except for the first pitch, the rock is excellent.