Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
CATHKIN: Bush's Route (North Face Chimney) (F)
(Map #2 : AZ:60 : 3148m)
Opening Party: Keith Bush, Andre Leeb-du Toit and N D Harte.
Date: 20 September 1955.
Time: Approach 6 hours and 2 hours climbing.
The approach is made up the gully that enters the Mhlwazini river
immediately downstream from Keith Bush Camp. The gully leads up to the
col between Sterkhorn and Cathkin. Near the top and on the right of
this gully, a small grassy saddle may be seen. Scramble up to this
saddle. This gives to the main north gully that runs in a NNE direction
into the Cathkin massif and terminates in a 100m chimney at the head of
the gully. The north gully is entered by traversing slightly to the
left, then around a grassy slope. About a third of the way up the north
gully a 15m waterfall is bypassed by a rising anticlockwise traverse
that leads to the right and around the pinnacle, re-entering the gully
above the fall. The chimney at the head of the gully is about 1m wide
and is ascended as follows:
- 30m D. Chimney up to stance straddling a block.
- 10m D. Chimney.
- 15m E. A slightly overhanging chimney.
- 15m D. Straight chimney.
- 20m F. An overhanging chimney. Pass between two chockstones into a small cave on the left.
- 5m F. Exposed. Start off by chimneying, and working up to a
standing position. Handholds are a half-inch crack to the right and a
rounded ledge high up in main fracture zone.
- 10m D. Chimney. Scramble to the top.
Notes: Abseil back down the route. It is essential that this line is
only attempted during the drier months as it becomes very slippery when
wet. Keith Bush was tragically killed while descending this route.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1955, pg 40.
Below: Andre Leeb-du Toit summiting Bush's Route on Cathkin, with top belay from N D Harte. Photo by Keith Bush.
Below: Bush's Route opening party at the summit - Keith Bush(left,) ND Harte (centre) and Andre Leeb-du Toit (right). Photo by Keith Bush.
CATHKIN: East Face (G/A1)
(Map #2 : AZ:60 : 3148m)
Opening Party: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle.
Date: August 1970.
Time: 2 hour approach; 7 hours climbing.
The route follows the obvious dark line on the face that may be seen when approaching from the contour path.
- 60m E and F. Starting from the grassed gully that is the base of the break, climb to a large platform-cum-ledge.
- 30m D and E. Scramble up the diedre to where it becomes considerably steeper.
- 20m F and G. Move to the left and then up and back to the right
across some slabs to reach the foot of a steep crack (12m F). Climb the
crack to a large sloping stance (8m F and G).
- Move up to a small overhang and then to the left side of the diedre
(direct aid); move up 5m (F and A1) and back to the centre of the
diedre. Climb up (3m A1) to a point from where, by moving to the right,
one can easily climb to below the metre-wide crack above (5m F1). Climb
onto the crack (3m A1) and then move up onto a pleasant stance below a
large rock (E). (Pitches 3 and 4 are dirty).
- Climb through a hole to get above the block and then easily up to
where 6m of pegging up of the left hand wall leads to a comfortable
stance.
- 30m F and A1. A sloping recess on the left leads to a large grassy ledge.
- Scramble up and through the arch, from where a short pitch of E standard leads to the top.
Descent: The quickest descent is by the south east ridge route.
By 'Berg standards, the route is fairly sustained but is spoiled by
the presence of, "a useless species of plant and a considerable amount
of filth."
Ref: MCSA Journal 1970, pg 68.
CATHKIN: South East Ridge (G1)
(Map #2 : AZ:60 : 3148m)
Opening Party: Paul Fatti and Erwin Muller.
Date: 2 June 1990.
Scramble up on grass slopes from the contour path to the high
shoulder on the south east ridge and continue up it toward the
headwall. Scramble up to a small grassy cave just below and to the left
of where the ridge runs into the headwall. The climb follows the thin
crack line leading diagonally up left into a shallow slanting recess
which continues to the summit plateau.
- 45m G1. Traverse left from the cave and then climb a bulge to the
base of the steep slanting crack. Climb the crack on good rock, via a
series of steep moves, to a point just below the grass ledge at the
base of the recess. Step left and then climb up through a bush onto the
ledge.
- 45m F3. Climb the recess, initially via a crack on the left, for
about 25m to where it opens up. Move up to the right hand crack and
climb it delicately for a few metres to where it is possible to step
left and move up to where the angle eases. Continue to the top.
Descent: Traverse back to the point directly above where the SE
ridge runs into the headwall. A single abseil on 50m ropes leads to the
top of the scramble. This provides a very quick descent off Cathkin.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1991, pg 187.
CATHKIN: South Gully (Standard Route) (E)
(Map #2 : AZ:60 : 3148m)
Opening Party: G T Amphlett, William C West, Father Alfred D Kelly, Tom Casement, Tobias and Melatu.
Date: 12 September 1912.
Time: 6 hours from Keith Bush Camp.
There are various approaches. From Cowl Fork, keep left until able
to work across to below the nek between Cowl and Cathkin, just above a
major washaway. From Cowl cave, traverse around Cowl at the level of
the Cowl/Cathkin nek, ie. 100m below the cave. From Keith Bush, walk up
to the nek between Cowl and Cathkin and descend some 150m on the
Injasuti side. Traverse into the gully just above the large washaway.
Do not try to take a shortcut on the small higher ledge.
The climb can also be approached from the south east ridge - do not
climb too high up the ridge before traversing as this could mean having
to drop down into the gully. Allow at least three hours from 'Blind
Man's Corner' before the gully is reached. (A long way!).
The first rock band on the left of the gully is broken by a grass
gully which is followed up and right to the next main ledge. A narrow
grass ramp then leads up and left to open grass slopes which are
followed until a small rock band forces one into the gully itself via
an exposed traverse. Continue up avoiding the waterfalls until a large
recess is reached. Scramble up the centre, past a small cave on your
left hand side, and then traverse 15m leftwards above the cave (C+) to
reach a knife edge or arete. Follow this to the base of a chimney.
Climb this chimney to a small grassy stance (crux, E if dry). This
pitch could prove very difficult in icy conditions. Climb another short
crack and traverse left across sloping rocks until a steep but easy
face is reached. Climb to the top.
Note: The following variation is often used when the chimney is wet or iced up. (Opened by Mervin Gans 1977).
Start at the same level as the foot of the chimney and 10m to the right.
- 10m F1. There is a short crack with a block sticking out of it
about 2m above the ground. Climb the crack to a cubby-hole, move left,
then up, using high handholds. Scramble up to the foot of the next
sheer face.
- 40m F1. Traverse right for about 3m, moving around a delicate
corner. Climb straight up a recessed face (open book), continue to the
top.
Descend via the same route, with the number of abseils depending on
conditions. An alternative descent is via the south east ridge.
Copyright: MCSA-KZN 1998 ©
Note: Although easy in good condition, this route is not to be underestimated, particularly when wet or icy.
Ref.: MCSA Journal 1913, pg 79; 1937, pg 77; 1986, pg 51.
MONK'S COWL: Standard Route (South Face) (F2)
(Map #2 : AY:60 : 3229)
Opening Party: Jacky Botha, Emil Rhule, Tony Hooper and Hans Wongtschowski.
Date: 9 May 1942.
Time: 3 hours climbing.
Approach the route by walking up Cowl Fork Gully from junction M5 on
the contour path. Cowl Cave makes a suitable base for this approach. It
is probably easier to use Keith Bush Camp as a base, then walk up the
gully to the Cathkin - Cowl nek. When doing so, it is highly desirable
to find the path after crossing the Mhlwazini stream otherwise some
serious bush bashing will be the order of the day. From the nek,
traverse clockwise around the base of Cowl on a grass ledge at the same
height as the nek
to
the gulley below Cowl Cave.
Continue
up the grass gully almost to the Cowl – Champagne nek. At the base
of the South face traverse counter-clockwise a short distance to the
highest grass ledge. A fixed peg marks the start of the route. If
approaching from Cowl Cave, cross the gully to the base of the South
face and traverse counter-clockwise a short distance to the highest
grass ledge.
- 20m E. From the highest grass ledge, climb more or less straight up
following the line of least resistance. An ab point will be passed on
the first grass ledge. Continue up to a cubbyhole on the second grass
ledge. Belay
from two bolts in the cubbyhole.
- 20m F2. Looking around the corner to the left of the cubbyhole, a
prominent beak-shaped rock can be seen about 10m further to the left.
Traverse left to a point below the beak, and then climb up past the
beak to easier ground and a good belay. The traverse is across steep
rock slabs on small handholds and friction footholds. This is difficult
in wet conditions. Avoid traversing too high.
- 20m F1. Climb up easily a large grass ledge. Continue straight up
through a rock band (unprotected, F1) to the next grass ledge. Or:
45m E. Climb up easily to a large grass ledge. Walk about 30m to the
right,
passing an ab point (two bolts), until it is possible to scramble up diagonally left through the
rock band, passing an ab point, to reach the second grass ledge.
Walk left along the grass ledge and around a corner. Climb the first
obvious break in the rock band above and then scramble up through a
second rock band. Walk up diagonally left across a broad grass ledge
and break through the final rock band at its far left hand corner.
Descent: Reverse the route to the abseil point mentioned in pitch 3
then abseil to the block below the cubby hole. A second short ab
reaches to the foot of the climb.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1942, pg 34; 1962, pg 88.
MONK'S COWL: Barry's Route (West Face) (F3)
(Map #2 : AY:60 : 3229)
Opening Party: Pitches 1 to 3: Dick Barry and Colin Gebhardt. Pitch 4: Malcolm Moore, Martin Winter and Matt Makowski..
Date: Pitches 1 to 3: 29 January 1938. Pitch 4: 18 August 1963.
Time: 4 hours climbing.
This is a spectacular and unlikely line on excellent rock. If
approaching from Cowl Cave, descend some 40m down the Champagne gully
until able to traverse up and out to a grass ledge (10m E.). A fixed
peg will be found higher up and is a useful belay. Continue traversing
along this ledge until reaching the obvious break shortly before a rock
shoulder at the west corner. From here continue as indicated towards
the end of the next paragraph..
The best approach is from Keith Bush Camp and then up the gully to
the nek between Monk's Cowl and Cathkin Peak. It is highly desirable to
find the path after crossing the Mhlwazini stream at the base of the
gully otherwise some serious bush bashing will be the order of the day.
About 100m below the Cathkin-Cowl nek, traverse out to the right along
a broad grass ledge that crosses the north face of the Cowl. Continue
around a corner where there is a rock shoulder. Just past the rock
shoulder it is possible to scramble up to a higher grass ledge. Walk to
the right along this grass ledge on the west face. After rounding a
corner, ascend a small, short gully and scramble up to reach the next
rock band on the west face. Start at the base of a 10m rock slab with
some overhanging blocks near the top. This is about 20m to the right of
the ridge separating the sheer north face from the more broken west
face.
- 15m E. Climb the slab to under the blocks. Traverse a couple of
metres to the right and then climb up onto the grass ledge above.
Cross a broad grass ledge diagonally to the right to the bottom of a
small gully through the next rock band. Climb the gully and then
traverse to the left along a grass ledge until the next rock band can
be climbed via a shallow recess to a grass ledge. Traverse left along
the ledge to a peg located just before the ledge peters out. Belay here
for the next pitch.
- 25m E. Climb up a metre or two onto a big 'sort of' flake then move
up diagonally to the left into a sloping groove/slab which is visible
on the left hand skyline from the belay. Move up and around the corner
onto a steep slab. Climb straight up to reach a belay on a large grass
ledge. Walk to the right to the base of a large recess.
- 25m F2. Start up a slab and climb up to a belay in the higher of
the two cubbyholes spaced about 3m apart. Protection is sparse - 1 to
2,5 cams. A few pegs may be useful.
- 30m F3. From the second cubbyhole, move out and up diagonally to
the right for a couple of metres until it is possible to traverse to
the right along a narrow rock ledge, with several fixed pegs, to reach
the base of a crack. Move up through the crack (well protected) and
onto another small ledge. Move slightly to the right to the base of two
exit cracks. Climb the right hand crack (strenuous) to reach a belay at
the edge of a broad grass ledge.
This grass ledge is the same one used when traversing left from the
top of the last pitch on the Standard Route. The break through the next
rock band is almost directly opposite the top of the final pitch on
Barry's Route. Scramble to the top following the details given for the
Standard Route.
Descent: As for the Standard Route.
Warning: The crux pitch is almost as serious to second as it is to lead. All party members should carry prussik loops.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1942, pg 37; 1963, pg 119 and 1986, pg 50.
CHAMPAGNE CASTLE: South Gully Route (D)
(Map #2 : AY:61 : 3246m)
Opening Party: Des Watkins, Pam Richards, J B Anderson and Roy Denny.
Date: July 1955.
Time: About 3 hours to the top.
From Keith Bush Camp walk upstream for about one hour to a major
fork. The gully on the left leads up to the Monk's Cowl - Champagne
Castle nek and the gully on the right leads straight up the north west
face of Champagne Castle. Why the route is called the south
gully route, heaven alone knows. Climb the gully, with a couple of D
pitches, to reach the top of the escarpment about 500m from the highest
point of Champagne Castle. This is possibly one of the better known
winter climbs. Depending on conditions it can range from a most
enjoyable snow and ice route to a 6 hour slog through slush! Descend
via Grey's Pass.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1955, pg 39.
CHAMPAGNE CASTLE: Frontal Route (C)
( Map #2 : AY:61 : 3246m)
This is a very quick, convenient scramble to the top of Champagne.
From Keith Bush Camp, proceed up the river to where it splits up the
south gully and behind Cowl. Continue up behind Cowl to an obvious easy
traverse out right about halfway up onto a large grass ledge. Follow
the ledge right across the amphitheatre until able to scramble
diagonally up right easily to another ledge which is followed back left
to below the huge overhang visible at the top of the face. Walk up to
below the overhang until able to traverse out left to an easy gully
which gives access to the summit. With careful route-finding, the grade
never exceeds C and a rope is not necessary. However, a rope is good
insurance should the way be lost.
CHAMPAGNE CASTLE: South East Ridge (F)
( Map #2 : AY:61 : 3246m)
Opening Party: J Cottrell, Ron Kinsley, Wolf Wieber.
Date: 1958.
Time: 4 hours climbing.
From Cowl cave, proceed down Cowl Fork, traverse left across the
rock bands and continue along the foot of the main face, until a nek,
between an isolated pinnacle and the ridge, is reached.
- 25m E or F if wet. Climb directly up. It may be possible to make this pitch easier by alternative routes on either side.
- Scramble up 20m and then traverse diagonally up to the left to an obvious nek.
- Cross this nek and traverse left to the bottom of a long crack. Climb the crack (D) that runs directly up for about 50m.
- E. From the top of the crack, traverse out to the right onto the
main face, climb 5m up an open book, and then traverse back to the
left. Scramble to the top.
Ref: MCSA Journal 1958, pg 95.