Contents

1. 1 Bolting Policy
2. 2 Policy: Use of Fixed Protection and Bolting in the KZN Drakensberg/Ukahlamba Park

Bolting Policy

Issued January 2001

Preamble

Invariably in KZN the land on which popular crags lie is privately owned. Therefore it is incumbent on persons wishing to initiate bolting to first of all direct their enquiries to the relevant landowners or custodians of the land. However, the ethics of mountaineering and traditional climbing, which are widely held within the climbing community, require the MCSA to take a stand on bolting and make recommendations in this regard. In addition, the MCSA is the "custodian" of certain crags and has a vested interest in them, for example, in the form of rights of access.

Notwithstanding its interests, the MCSA does not wish to act as the official "watchdog" or responsible authority for bolting in KwaZulu Natal, nor to be held responsible for bolting in the region. The MCSA therefore offers the following policy for consideration:

1. General principles for bolting

1.1 Bolts should be placed so as to minimise the impact on the character of a route.

1.2 Bolts should be placed by competent individuals.

1.3 The materials and techniques used should enable the greatest strength and longest possible lifespan of the bolts, based on technical information available at the time.

1.4 Safety factors being equal, bolts should be placed in such a way to minimise any negative aesthetic impact.

1.5 In cases where there is any doubt as to whether or not to place bolts, consensus should be obtained within the climbing community before the bolts are placed.

2. Replacing Bolts

2.1 The re-placing of old bolts which are no longer safe is an established and accepted practice which should continue as safety dictates.

3. Retro-Bolting

3.1 Retro-bolting of traditional routes should not be tolerated. The sanctity of KZN’s traditional routes must be protected since they are a valuable part of our climbing heritage which should not be lost to our own and future generations.

3.2 The retro-bolting of sport routes should similarly be discouraged except under exceptional circumstances, and then only with the consent of the first ascensionist ,if contactable, or after consensus has been obtained within the climbing community.

3.3 The replacement of old pegs with bolts at traditional climbing venues is appropriate only under the following conditions:

3.3.1 There is no alternative point of natural protection nearby.
3.3.2 The pegs being replaced are critical to the safety of the route.
3.3.4 The bolts are placed as close as possible to the old pegs so as retain the original character of the route (preferably within 30cm).
3.3.5 Consensus is obtained within the climbing community before the bolts are placed.

4. New Routes

4.1 In respect of new routes, it should be at the discretion of the first ascensionist to decide whether or not to bolt a route.

4.2 Where the new route is at a traditional climbing venue:

4.2.1 Any bolts placed should not affect the character of adjacent routes in any way. If there is any uncertainty, consensus should first be obtained within the climbing community.

Policy: Use of Fixed Protection and Bolting in the KZN Drakensberg/Ukahlamba Park

19th June 2003

Pre-amble

The Mountain Club of South Africa KwaZulu Natal Section stands firmly for the conservation of wilderness areas, including mountain areas and especially the Drakensberg. The MCSA KZN has a long and proud track record in this regard and a long standing and positive working relationship with Ezimvelo KwaZulu Natal Wildlife (and its predecessors) over many issues including Mountain Rescue and Conservation. There is also a long and rich heritage of mountain and rock climbing in the Drakensberg dating back to the early 1900's. Amongst the first recreational users of the Drakensberg were in fact mountaineers and climbers. From the early days, the use of fixed protection in the form of pegs by these climbers was necessary for safety. Since then the development of removable protection has made climbing easier, however such removable protection cannot be used in all instances. There are therefore still pegs in place on many routes in the Drakensberg and their existence is essential for the safety of the routes concerned. Similarly the use of fixed protection is necessary in establishing certain new routes where removable forms of protection cannot always be used.

Definition of removable protection: Removable protection is defined as mechanical camming devices ("friends"), wire stoppers and other such devices. They are typically inserted into the rock by the first climber (the leader) and removed by the last member of a climbing party, thereby leaving nothing behind in the rock.

Definition of fixed protection: Fixed protection is defined as pegs and bolts. Pegs are hammered into natural weaknesses in the rock whilst bolts are inserted into pre-drilled holes. Pegs can are usually left in place but are sometimes removed by the climbing party as they climb. Bolts are invariably left in place.

Use of fixed protection in the Drakensberg: The use of fixed protection in the Drakensberg is supported by the MCSA KZN for the following reasons and subject to the following conditions.

Reasons for the MCSA's support of fixed protection:

• Fixed protection is essential for the safety of climbers who are an existing and long established user group of the area.
• Fixed protection is already in place and has been for many decades.
• Fixed protection has gone un-noticed for decades by all except climbers themselves. It is placed in the high berg and is therefore invisible to all user groups other than climbers themselves.
• Fixed protection has no discernible environmental impact.
• Climbers and the fixed protection they use have one of the lowest impacts of all user groups in the Drakensberg. Other forms of man-made intervention in the Drakensberg catering for other user groups have far more impact than fixed protection on rock climbs including: recreational helicopters, pedestrian pathways, road infrastructure, holiday resorts, chain ladders.
• Notwithstanding the above, the use of fixed protection in the Drakensberg, especially bolts, is rare and is only utilised as a means of last resort.
• The MCSA KZN and the Climbing Community already regulates itself in terms of a stringent code of ethics, both in the Drakensberg and elsewhere.

Conditions for the use of fixed protection:

• Fixed protection should not be placed on any rock face which is accessible or visible to user groups other than climbers so as to interfere with their enjoyment of the wilderness.
• Fixed protection should only be used as a means of last resort where removable protection does not enable safe passage.
• Where fixed protection is used, pegs should be the first choice.
• Where pegs cannot be used or are unsafe then bolts can be utilised. It is noted that due to the cost and difficulty of placing bolts in the berg, they are very seldom utilised.